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New Sport Rope (Read 6829 times)

KH

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New Sport Rope
September 26, 2008, 11:05:20 am
Been doing a little bit of sport climbing this summer and have come to a conclusion that I need to invest in a new rope.

The only problem is, I have no idea what to look for in a rope.  I presume light, takes lots of falls etc. but am really hoping that I can get some good recommendations.  I'm redpointing single pitch routes up to 25m and, in terms of cost, I am prepared to spend decent money on something that's going to have a decent life span.



Adam Lincoln

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#1 Re: New Sport Rope
September 26, 2008, 11:08:50 am
I haven't got one myself, but have used them on many occasion. The infinitys, albeit, not very light are very durable, handle well and do the job just perfectly. I find Beals are amazing, but don't last. I have an 80 metre Mammut Revalation thats been all round the world with me in the last 18 months, and is still going strong. Not cheap mind.

Munkii

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#2 Re: New Sport Rope
September 26, 2008, 11:11:41 am
yeah, infinity ropes are supposed to be good.

have no direct experience a i only roped climbing i do is indoor and the rest is good old BOULDERING!

Jaspersharpe

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#3 Re: New Sport Rope
September 26, 2008, 11:20:59 am
I find Beals are amazing, but don't last. I have an 80 metre Mammut Revalation thats been all round the world with me in the last 18 months, and is still going strong. Not cheap mind.

Some things never change!

magpie

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#4 Re: New Sport Rope
September 26, 2008, 02:28:19 pm
I use a Mammut Serenity for sport stuff usually, it handles amazingly well cause it's so skinny and slick but I don't know how many times I'd want to fall on it, it's a bit like climbing on a slippy shoe lace, great for carrying  ;D 

There's probably better options if you're going to be working routes and taking a lot of falls.  Also, I'm not sure if it might be on the skinny side for using with a gri-gri, if that matters? 

I love it though, it's light to carry and really easy to handle, plus you really notice a difference when pulling it up to clip, it's very light.

TobyD

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#5 Re: New Sport Rope
October 03, 2008, 10:48:45 pm
My tuppence worth:

Infinity Sprint 10mm is a good durable all rounder. A little stiff to handle but otherwise good.

Beals generally tend to handle beautifully, give lovely soft falls, and last about five minutes.

Sterling (USA) are fantastic (they make infinity for WC) as are Bluewater ropes, but both a pain to get over here.

Personally i have had a number of hugely disappointing Mammut ropes recently, and would avoid Galaxys and Tusks particularly.

Edelrid and Edelweiss both seem to produce excellent, though prohibitively expensive strings; haven't used either a lot, but have always been impressed by them when i have.


Drew

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#6 Re: New Sport Rope
October 03, 2008, 11:03:12 pm
Personally i have had a number of hugely disappointing Mammut ropes recently, and would avoid Galaxys and Tusks particularly.

Care to expand on that?

Paul B

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#7 Re: New Sport Rope
October 03, 2008, 11:19:44 pm
The first rope I ever had was a tusk, which was great apart from being white! The second is a galaxy which i'm not too happy with, it's not that old and not overly used but its creaky and generally people don't like it!
I'd be tempted by an Infinity in electric blue to spice up those photos. I've been told the slimmer ones are extremely slick in a gri gri and need serious attention (naturally).

north_country_boy

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#8 Re: New Sport Rope
October 04, 2008, 09:53:35 am
I've recently bought and used intensively in Rodellar, a Edelweiss Laser 9.6mm........ handles brilliantly, good elongation, and very robust, probably sits right inbetween a Beal for elongation and handling, and a Mammut (Tusk or similar) for rubustness..... plus its pretty light....

Main thing i suppose is whether you intend to do much dogging on it....?

TobyD

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#9 Re: New Sport Rope
October 05, 2008, 10:35:11 pm
Personally i have had a number of hugely disappointing Mammut ropes recently, and would avoid Galaxys and Tusks particularly.

Care to expand on that?

I've found that the sheath on mammuts tend to attract dirt very easily. Now, whether this is to do with the weave, the coating, or my ineptitude i couldn't pinpoint scientifically, but this seems to accelerate wear to the point where a tusk (one of the newer yellow ones) was looking pretty battered after 2-3 weeks use.
Galaxys seemed to get returned more often than most too when i worked in a sto', several with grimy sheath problems (awaiting finbarr style retort); they'd All been used with tarps too.

John Cooke

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#10 Re: New Sport Rope
October 06, 2008, 04:29:20 pm
Infinity Sprint gets my shout, my 10mm is the best rope i've had, runs smooth and is super durable. If you're into dogging, which i can imagine you are, then the 10mm will put up with a fair bit of abuse. If you're after something light then check out the 9.2mm.

Paul B

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#11 Re: New Sport Rope
June 06, 2010, 09:15:32 pm
Sorry to dig this old thread up.

Managed to ruin my Beal Stinger last week which leaves me without a sensible length sport rope. I've been pretty happy with it and went straight for another one but can't seem to see it in a 70m anywhere and the thinner Joker (9.1mm) seems to have replaced it (at that length).

Then I stumbled upon a glowing review of the Tendon Master 9.2mm from Dave Pickford on UKC, anyone else got any experience of this rope (in relation to the Beal)?

Not sold on the Edelweiss', my last one wore out fairly quickly.

Serpico

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#12 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 03:40:50 pm

Then I stumbled upon a glowing review of the Tendon Master 9.2mm from Dave Pickford on UKC, anyone else got any experience of this rope (in relation to the Beal)?

I've got a Tendon Master (9.7 I think); handles really well but the sheath has furred badly with only a few falls and about 6wks of use.

Paul B

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#13 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 03:45:14 pm
Thanks for the info.

I have to say I was really impressed with the performance of my Beal compared to anything else I've owned or used, although I've never managed to nick a rope before but I think thats just a coincidence.  :shrug:

Beal it is.

jwi

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#14 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 03:45:37 pm
I have a Mammut rope I like, but I will refrain from buying more until they quit financing more via-ferratas on Cerro Torre.

Paul B

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#15 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 04:07:04 pm
Had two of them, thought they were very average. The first one was white as well which is never a good idea.

Jaspersharpe

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#16 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 04:43:06 pm
although I've never managed to nick a rope before

I wouldn't go around shouting about that.

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#17 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 04:58:38 pm
I'm just finished with a Beal rope and I'm pleased with it, it seems to have lasted a long time. If the OP is still looking for a rope (!) I'd add that it may be wise to buy longer than you first need. After a heavy dogging session your end may be pretty worn but you could chop it and still have a useable length. Thicker krabs also reduce wear.

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#18 Re: New Sport Rope
June 07, 2010, 05:40:39 pm
I'm going to second the suggestion above of Sterling rope from the USA, if you can be bothered. My mate's got one and it's brilliant.

My Beal ropes seem to be very twisty/tangly compared to others, have no idea why that is. Otherwise have been durable so far.

 

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