[Neil F]

Thought I'd try here first, with requests for Gogarth info...

Has anyone ever seen the crack which forms P1 of Tet Offensive dry?  I've traversed under it many times, and it has always been dripping.  I suppose a mid-summer evening ascent would be the best bet, once the sun has come round to shine into the crack, but benightment-risk might then kick in.

Also, one of the reasons that pitch looks so hard, is that the wall it runs up is really leaning.  This is very apparent when you look across at it from the platform under Syringe / Camel.  So in that area, who has done Sebastopol?  Assuming it starts up the vague thin crack which is the first feature right of Tet, which also happens to be on this tilted wall, then how on earth could it have ever been given E4 6a (or whatever it was).  I think this starting crack is E5 6b, and when you get to the top of it, you're only 30ft up a 300ft route...

Anyone done it, and what did you think?

Oh, and what's the gear like on Food and Drink?

God I love Gogarth Main Cliff...!

Neil

[T_B]

Neil - Rick Kirby did Sebastapol not that long ago I think? I thought I'd done it but maybe not. I've seen the crack of Tet Offensive dry though if that's a help

I have done Food and Drink tho and from what I can remember (was years and years ago - just looked at the guidebook and curiously it says 2006, er more like 1996), the first pitch had some boulderyness above a 1/2 friend? A bit go-ey into a corner then escape out of it leftwards but space to fall into. The second pitch up a corner was bolder with sml wires. I fell onto a number 2 Rp when I pulled a ledge off. Luckily I was climbing with The Wainwright who took over and led the pitch sans ledge and gear below the feet. I recall having a tight rope seconding up and it being slopey. What I also recall is that it was classic boiling hot Main Cliff weather, so maybe it isn't that bad really. Definitely a good straight-up line with good climbing. Really though, I'm surprised and disappointed to hear you've not done it  3 stars in the guidebook I see.

[El Mocho]

I have done Tet Offensive, according to my guide it was 2002 with swiss Jvan. I have no other information for you, but it was probably dry.

[RichK]

Hey Neil

We did Sebastapol a few years ago - I'm sure we spoke around the time or there was a beta exchange. Totally agree with bottom 30ft. Flippin desperate, got an absolute ing. Took us 2 or 3 go's. In fact, pretty sure Rab & Martin may have tried it...with U??...and had a similar experience. Funny pitch, looks piss from sea level!

Unsure on Tet start and conditions. Chris Parkin will know as he's done most of those in that area. I have his mail if required. Think's he's in CC.

Big up for Sebastapol BTW but prep' for a 

Wastelands - good, but pretty worrying 2nd pitch. More E5 than 4

[Pantontino]

Thought I'd try here first, with requests for Gogarth info...

Has anyone ever seen the crack which forms P1 of Tet Offensive dry?  I've traversed under it many times, and it has always been dripping.  I suppose a mid-summer evening ascent would be the best bet, once the sun has come round to shine into the crack, but benightment-risk might then kick in.

Also, one of the reasons that pitch looks so hard, is that the wall it runs up is really leaning.  This is very apparent when you look across at it from the platform under Syringe / Camel.  So in that area, who has done Sebastopol?  Assuming it starts up the vague thin crack which is the first feature right of Tet, which also happens to be on this tilted wall, then how on earth could it have ever been given E4 6a (or whatever it was).  I think this starting crack is E5 6b, and when you get to the top of it, you're only 30ft up a 300ft route...

I've seen it dry, but more often than not it is wet.

Both Sebastapol and Tet Offensive were given E4 when they were first done; so was Hunger too! 

[Neil F]

In fact, pretty sure Rab & Martin may have tried it...with U??...and had a similar experience. Funny pitch, looks piss from sea level!

Yep - that was with me.  I thought Rab would be game for it, particularly after he enjoyed Alien so much  .  Anyway, when chatting to him this very weekend, he confessed that actually he hates Gogarth!

Big up for Sebastapol BTW but prep' for a 

Yep, I'm definitely going to have another go sometime, but fear I may need a new team!  I read in someone's blog that P2 is harder climbing than P1.  It may be graded as such, but does it really compare to that starting crack for sheer difficulty / strenuousness...?

Wastelands - good, but pretty worrying 2nd pitch. More E5 than 4

I noticed Ian Milward has done this recently.  He's from the old school, cool head tradition too!

Neil

[RichK]

In fact, pretty sure Rab & Martin may have tried it...with U??...and had a similar experience. Funny pitch, looks piss from sea level!

Yep - that was with me.  I thought Rab would be game for it, particularly after he enjoyed Alien so much  .

 Anyway, when chatting to him this very weekend, he confessed that actually he hates Gogarth!

Yeh, he told me the same the other week. Reckoned the rock was not very good &very scary

Big up for Sebastapol BTW but prep' for a 


Yep, I'm definitely going to have another go sometime, but fear I may need a new team!  I read in someone's blog that P2 is harder climbing than P1.  It may be graded as such, but does it really compare to that starting crack for sheer difficulty / strenuousness...?

The first pitch is harder, top pitch is all there u just gotta gun it a bit to the arete - an amazing position & rest. Good gear, but tiring to place. Largish (3?) cam.

I need to get on some trad, stuck in the sport climbing    vortex

[TobyD]

I need to get on some trad, stuck in the sport climbing    vortex

... and me Rich, i am getting deeply paranoid about losing trad mojo and becoming a clipsticking pansy. The talk of Gogarth semi-esoterica is getting me psyched though! GIve me a shout if you are keen anytime this summer!

[RichK]

I need to get on some trad, stuck in the sport climbing    vortex

... and me Rich, i am getting deeply paranoid about losing trad mojo and becoming a clipsticking pansy. The talk of Gogarth semi-esoterica is getting me psyched though! GIve me a shout if you are keen anytime this summer!

  ditto. The Pass has lots of chalked up prizes to go at

[TobyD]

ditto. The Pass has lots of chalked up prizes to go at

were it not for the Biblical rainstorm that arrives every time i set off on anything harder than VS in the pass, i'd have been right in there.

[Pantontino]

ditto. The Pass has lots of chalked up prizes to go at

were it not for the Biblical rainstorm that arrives every time i set off on anything harder than VS in the pass, i'd have been right in there.

Oh yee of little faith! Lovely and dry of late in the mountains. Did the Skull the other day and it was actually too warm!

[Bonjoy]

ditto. The Pass has lots of chalked up prizes to go at

were it not for the Biblical rainstorm that arrives every time i set off on anything harder than VS in the pass, i'd have been right in there.

Now you mention it, didn't it piss it down when I was belaying you on Cockblock? 

[TobyD]

were it not for the Biblical rainstorm that arrives every time i set off on anything harder than VS in the pass, i'd have been right in there.
[/quote]
Now you mention it, didn't it piss it down when I was belaying you on Cockblock? 
[/quote]

yes, and half way up Lord... and ....

It's a good job i love climbing sopping wet rock 

[Muenchener]

were it not for the Biblical rainstorm that arrives every time i set off on anything harder than VS in the pas

And there's me thinking of a Welsh Trad Nostalgia Week maybe next summer. Realistically if I only allow one week I'd count myself lucky to get a dry *day* out of it. Good job I like[d] slate.