[Reprobate_Rob]

Had a brief play on this on Sunday, felt nails.

Was pulling on and standing up with rh crimp, lh undercut, but just didn't feel like I could do anything from there...
Any tips or is it just locking off the crimp with feet on smears to bring the lh out?

From sidepull and slopey pinch thing to top felt steady so i'm guessing it's all about that start.

[r-man]

Seem to remember there is a crucial heel that locks you in.

[dave]

This thing just is nails, harder than zorev.

[Bonjoy]

Seem to remember trying it an obvious way and it feeling V hard, then figuring some less than obvious beta and then finding it steady at the grade. Sorry, that's not very helpful is it.

[abarro81]

I definitely used a right heel to slap up on the first move. In an equally useless manner I can't quite remember which hand I went with, though think it was the right? Left hand maybe on the arete? Or maybe it was an undercut...
Anyway, the right heel was the key (and had to be placed just right IIRC)...

[cofe]

there's a high right heel, which is how jerry does it on No Comment I think. I did it with a shit-feeling left heel around the arete and up with left hand.

[Scouse D]

I used L heel too, feels poor till you get it in the right spot.

[Dolly]

Rob, Norton and I did this on Sunday as well.
Pull on with the 2 crimps, L foot on the v small matchstick edge, then get R heel on (more on the outside edge, rather than right in the back)
Go up with R for the pinchy hold , change the heel to a toe then get the small layaway on the left arete with left hand, lock up to the top with R, left toe on the crimp that your left hand started on, then its easy.

[Johnny Brown]

What Bonjoy said. I think how strict you are on the sit-start makes a fair amount of difference too.

[Reprobate_Rob]

Cheers everyone.
I guess R heel would be the obvious sequence and L heel the unobvious one, i'll give both another crack next time i'm up there.
Think JB's right about where you start too. If you start with LH on the large undercut it's gonna be a damn sight harder than starting with the crimp on the arete, and being a bit of a short-arse I can't really reach both crimps from the deck.

[cofe]

which is how jerry does it on No Comment I think

just thought, it might be Winter Sessions where Jerry does it. I can't remember though.

[dobbin]

I think its winter sessions where Jerry does it.

I used a left heel and found it steady whilst Dave couldnt do it in about a thousand goes. Then he did Zorev in two goes and it took me hours.

[Johnny Brown]

Zorev is horrendous, the weak need not apply. Violence just requires a bit of feel.

[Stubbs]

So are you saying Dob is weak and Dave has no grit feel?  Don't mince your words Johnny 

[Johnny Brown]

Based on his last comment alone, yes I am. If only it were true.