[bigphil]

Anyone have a boulering grade for this, seeing as its a micro-route/highball boulder problem?

[dave]

is this that supposed E2 thing near flying buttress? dunno what it is but looks desperate, never seen anyone on it let alone doing it.

[Bonjoy]

Have bouldered the first half out but didn't have a pad so didn't try the top throw.

[Nigel]

About V6 I reckon. Total waddage and very photogenic aswell. Should be a part of everyone's Stanage solo circuit. Clean the ledge just before the top as you descend down past it after doing Flying Buttress, its usually pretty green.

[bigphil]

Cheers for the knowledge.  I did the start last night but never made the throw for the ledge.  Based on the one other V6 I have done I thought it about the same.

[Nigel]

Put a tick mark on the best bit of the ledge by leaning in from above. You can always brush it off afterwards.

[Bonjoy]

[Nigel]

Ha! Thought you might like that  :D

But seriously; on the day when you think you're gonna get the problem, stick a couple of beers in the river to chill, so you can celebrate in style. Cheers! :drink:

[clm]

no tick marks no pad :

[jonjon]

from the break - is it right foot on the hold just above first break and then throw up to the top? I.E. push off break and right foot? A bit morpho/hard for E2 6a?

[Sloper]

photo / location, this sounds like a good one.

[clm]

stand in break or a slightly higher foothold if there is one. Take tiny knife edged crimp/flake in vertical seam. Paste foot on high and send.

[jonjon]

Thanks - crack/seam on left was wet so i ignored it, and consequently tried over-hard rock over lurches from break to break.
Another to go back to.

Sloper...its the little wall left of flying buttress at stanage, needs a mat or two and preferably a spot, oh and it doesn't dry quite as quick as rest of stanage

[Sloper]

?The wall to the left of the little arete with the loose hold?

If so 6a seems a real sandbag, reachy 6b?

[clm]

e2 6b

[Sloper]

My favourite grade!

Incidentally does anyone know if the wall to the right of kirkus' corner (not the arete which is every man and his dog's new route) has been done?  It's steep with some interesting moves but the top is hard to stick and with a frightening fall was deemed to be unjustified.

At a guess probably font 7a+ to 7b+

[Jim]

can we all chip in and get Clm a massive fucking medal with hero or similar printed on it

[clm]

have none of you got a stanage guide? Pretty sure you mean spasticus artisticus. E4 5c.

[clm]

and jim, have you checked the date on that post. Wake the fuck up! The only grade you know owt about is e7