[BiggaG]

I'm off to Nagoya for work related reasons next week though should hopefully have some time off towards the end of the trip, so was hoping to get some bouldering done is possible. From looking round the web, there appears to be a bouldering spot near Toyota, though information on this area is somewhat lacking. Anyone been there or know of any other places near to the city? I will be carless and padless so reliant on public transport and Japanese goodwill. Cheers!

[BiggaG]

No, I haven't seen this.....will take a look. 

[jwi]

There are no other bouldering areas other than Toyota close to Nagoya as far as I know.

I doubt bouldering in Toyota can be done by public transport.  I wouldn't try.

I started to write an area-guide to Toyota at one point but never got round to finishing it. Now I can't find my draft, and I've forgotten most stuff.

Anyway. Some pointers:

The rock in Toyota is really sharp. Most people can't climb two days in a row.

A few of the most popular areas are described in vol 4 of Nihon 100 Iwaba

For a first visit I recommend the areas Komiyama (古美山) and Okyojō (大給城)


In Okyojou the most famous problems are "Pole position" (about Fb 6C+) and "Diamond Slab" (??)


Pole postition top out by Jonas Wiklund, on Flickr


Diamond slab by Jonas Wiklund, on Flickr

Another great area was 大田 which may or may not be pronounced as Ōta. I liked this problem:

?? - Fb 7A by Jonas Wiklund, on Flickr

[BiggaG]

Thanks for the info! Looks like i'll have to sweet talk someone into driving me there then......

I don't suppose you have any info on where the bouldering is in Toyota?

[jwi]

For Komiyama* (古美山): From Toyoda C or from the 豊田松平IC (Tokai-Matsudaira intersection) on Tōkai-ringloop (東海環状自動車道) take road 301 away from Toyoda. After the bridge turn left onto road 39. Drive past a big industrial site and take right onto a tiny road in the direction of ??? right after a convenience store (?Well there was a convenience store there 5 years ago). Park by the public facilities.

It is somewhere on the road to this thing: .

I looked in the guidebook, and I'd almost forgotten what horrible, horrible jokes Kitayama's maps are, but I recon Okyoyo 大給城
(Apporach from the south)

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Footnote: Ff you show some this to Japanese people you *must* show them the kanji