[Ru]

It's inspiring to see Tom is continuing to climb hard routes out in Spain, no doubt whilst living on an absolute shoestring budget. He's done 2 more 8cs within the past month or so and has done 8 8c-8c+s in the last 6 months, which is more hard sport climbing than any other Brit has done in in similar period I would have thought (apart from Steve and Rich at the height of his powers, maybe). He doesn't make much noise about his achievements himself, so I thought I would.

[Kingy]

Yes its brilliant to see this, great effort Tom! Interesting that Tom's latest 8c Cadena Perpetua is said to be 'old school' from the days in the mid-90's when there weren't many 9a's around. Its interesting to speculate what the 'new school' grade of it would be!!

[Doylo]

I really hope he cracks 9a, very inspiring!

[n_man]

If he did would he be the 5th UK climber to do so?

Smith
Gaskins
McClure
Simpson

being the other 4 I can think of.

[Nigel]

Neil Carson too.

[abarro81]

Dunne for the roof at malham (controversy aside)?
What 9a has Smith done?

[Nibile]

pilgrimage

[moose]

Dave MacLeod too - A Muerte

[Paul B]

wasn't it suggested to be just sub 9a?

[Doylo]

Graham said it could be 8c+ but everyone else seems to take 9a.

[Paul B]

Good knowledgeo doylo...

[n_man]

So he'd be number eight?

[moose]

Re A Muerte, I thought Simpson originally claimed 9a+ (in comparison to Action Directe) - a two grade slip seems a bit odd - was an alternative sequence found? 

[north_country_boy]

Re A Muerte, I thought Simpson originally claimed 9a+ (in comparison to Action Directe) - a two grade slip seems a bit odd - was an alternative sequence found? 

Never heard this and not sure its true.

I know he said that as there was a long list of 'wads' (malc,dani, patxi, etc) who had already tried it and not done it who would normally eat 8c+ for breakfast, then it must be 9a. Comparative to Action Directe, but then thats 8c+/9a on the german scale...

[Paul B]

I think there was a slightly different sequence used on latter ascents, something about matching in a pocket perhaps? Maybe Dave Mc wrote about it somewhere on his blog...

[moose]

looks like he tried an alternative, but rejected it:

From his blog at
http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/2007/11/every-day-little-more-muerte.html

I had dismissed the standard sequence for the crux as being two ‘body strength’ dependent for my frame, slapping at nearly full span for two finger pockets out to each side. Bad tactics, MacLeod. After wasting nearly two weeks trying a crazy alternative sequence matching a finger slicing sharp pocket and waiting for my torn fingers to heal, I reverted. Once I gave the standard sequence a chance (like for 10 minutes!), I found it was actually quite easy (for a 9a crux you understand). Immediately I could redpoint to the last move.

[Doylo]

I think there was a slightly different sequence used on latter ascents, something about matching in a pocket perhaps? Maybe Dave Mc wrote about it somewhere on his blog...

Yeah pretty sure Macleod used same sequence as Simpson. After watching Committed 2 Rich was mighty impressed with the way that Dave dispatched it.