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Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT (Read 2647 times)

petejh

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Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 11, 2009, 11:42:29 pm
Just wanted to bring this to people's attention. I was re-equipping 'Pink Pinkie Snuff It' on LPT today, I managed to easily pull out by hand the single eco bolt lower-off. A couple of yanks with a claw hammer behind it was all it took, less than 1kN, scary. I've seen people top roping and lowering off from this bolt. Careful what you're clipping out there.

chummer

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#1 Re: Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 12, 2009, 01:13:54 pm
Good work Pete, I had the pleasure of sampling some of your work and you're doing an awesome job, nice one.

With regard to the bolt i presume it had the red resin gluing it in place?? This is the stuff to be especially weary about. All the bolts I've come across on the Orme that have had play in them have had the reddish resin holding them in, including the bolt on first belay of New Dimensions on the Gwynt (which I could move with my hands) . Apparently this stuff was used quite a lot when resins first started being placed as it was cheaper than the grey stuff we use now, it has also proved to be not as good/longlasting so to expand on what you said:
 
Quote
Careful what you're clipping out there
Especially when you see the reddish resin holding it in!

Any dodgy bolts can be reported on the wiki;  http://northwaleslimestone.wetpaint.com/?t=anon , next to the route name.

Doylo

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#2 Re: Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 12, 2009, 01:33:49 pm
Yeah the pink pinkie lower off has been dodge for ages. I have thought about setting up a top rope fro people on it a few times but then remembered about the lower off and thought better of it. Good work Pete  :thumbsup:

Pantontino

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#3 Re: Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 13, 2009, 03:49:47 pm
Good work Pete, everybody really appreciates all the re-equipping work you have done.

petejh

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#4 Re: Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 13, 2009, 04:55:41 pm
Awww shucks  :ang:

It's just an excuse to make something constructive out of my glue sniffing habit really.

For all you 7c slab fans, I'm putting the bolts in Cafe Libre tomorrow, I know you've been lining up.

clm

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#5 Re: Dangerous lower-off bolt, LPT
May 13, 2009, 07:57:29 pm
Red resin makes me really tired too...

You guys are getting me psyched for N wales asap :bounce:

 

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