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beginners wall (Read 1666 times)

nodder

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beginners wall
May 08, 2009, 05:58:50 pm
Went to beginners wall the other day, worked out where recreational violence goes, and am guessing that Neils wall is on the far right hand side with fingery pockets for the sit start and an obvious undercut?  What is in on recreational violence left hand, and where/what is basic power?  Just in case I end up there again.  

Andy B

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#1 Re: beginners wall
May 08, 2009, 06:04:59 pm
R V L H goes to the same crimp as the original, but with your right instead of left hand then to a better crimp up and left with your left hand, then the same finishing hold as the original. Neil's wall is at the far right side (obvious opposing gastons, that aren't used as gastons on the easiest sequence). I don't know of a problem called Basic Power. Do you mean Advanced Training. If so then this is a direct sit start to Man of Steel on a two finger pocket then up to a slot with edge above it , then into Man of Steel at the second hold. See the Peak Lime Additions thread near the top of the news board for more info.

r-man

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#2 Re: beginners wall
May 09, 2009, 12:40:46 am
Neil's wall is at the far right side (obvious opposing gastons, that aren't used as gastons on the easiest sequence).

Interesting. Did you use the left gaston with right hand?

jonjon

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#3 Re: beginners wall
May 09, 2009, 08:00:31 am
use the left gaston as a poor(ish) pinch, and the right as a gaston, or even pinch it - thumb on edge, fingers aranged on right side of hold.

 

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