[Kingy]

Presumably the second holds aren't numbered on the topo? Above 5 and 6, between 2 and 10?

Unfortunatley no, I don't think there was space in the guide to include this problem and those two crimps are not numbered. You will see what I mean about the sitter... If you like this, do the 7b+ problem 3. Really tenuous sidepulls, another classic!

[Kingy]

Above 5 and 6, between 2 and 10?

Sorry I missed this. yes the grey crimp is below 10 I think, its like a razor blade, u can't miss it, a real skin shredder. yes the diagonal crimp for the LH is a bit right of 2, just a bit below the first break, also tiny!

[Falling Down]

Is it dry?

[r-man]

A sit start exists and is supposed to be 7c but seems pretty contrived, I could never figure it out.

The beta from James is:

Outside left foot on shit edge/slot (next to pollished nothing sloper)
Right foot flagging right
Left hand in break
Right hand on undercut/break (just right of main white ladder right foothold for standup)
Right foot to "main white ladder right foothold for standup" (just left of right hand, feeld bunched)
Right hand starting sidepull of white ladder standup
Left hand starting crimp of WL standup
Finish WL

[Kingy]

Thanks Robin, I tried to use this beta and did an easy sit start but you can just reach straight from the break with the RH up to the starting crimp for the LH so to get all bunched up like that is contrived to say the least when you can just reach thru from the break. I will stand corrected tho if somebody can demonstrate this.

[a dense loner]

kingy did you just say you can reach up rh for the crimp you use left handed? a curse on you and all yours. you're at stoney, you can't do non-eliminates . white ladder went to the apex since i could static to the bottom and this wasn't cricket.

[a dense loner]

ps my way of doing the sitter was absolutely moronic and i can't believe a grown man was trying it that way

[abarro81]

I think Kingy meant "straight from the break with the RH up to the starting crimp for the LH" in the sense that his RH is in the break, not that he reaches the crimp with the wrong hand..
Anyway, where in Sheffield sells lycra shorts hey?

[Kingy]

I was reaching up with my LH to the starting LH crimp on the stand start with my RH in the break which basically reached through most of the difficulties of the sit start described above. This is a shame as I don't mind eliminates where certain holds are ruled out as you can pretend they're not there. However, ones where you have to avoid doing a reach between allowed holds that you could otherwise do in order to contrive difficulty seems a bridge too far. However, what do I know, as Dense says, whilst at Stoney you can't do non-eliminates!! 

[Ackbar]

I have a new problem at stoney.

You climb "Tom's Roof", all the way to the last move.  And when you get there, instead of matching on the final hold, you fall to the ground and swear loudly