[nic mullin]

What are people doing when they get to the jug on the right hand side of the lip these days? The guide says go straight up the arete but this was horrendously green, like it hadn't been climbed for at least a year or two. It also looked like it would've been tricky even if the holds weren't covered in pudding.

I did it to the jug, couldn't find anything that looked viable and dropped off. I didn't feel too good about that, so did it again finishing up chip shop mantel.

What's the deal people? Any knowledge gratefully recieved.

[dave]

when I did this, for the reason like you say, everyone went right and did the topout there. I'd like a crack at the topout when its clean, it aught to be good. might not be as bad to clean as it looks.

[joel]

The same thing happened to me last winter. A good problem but was unsure what to do with the arete; all green and apparantly holdless. I tried the arete section repeatedly and failed on it. In the end I got tired and finished up the easier problem and felt a bit unfulfilled.  Good climbing on the lower section though; and a good little circuit even if (like me) you're shit at mantels.

[nic mullin]

Cheers guys, I guessed that'd be the case but thought I'd better check in case I missed something obvious.

I agree - I think all the holds you'd need would be cleanable from stood in the gutter - if you caught it after some bad weather so the lichen was swollen it sould be a pretty quick job to get it climbable. I'll be back at some point to give it a go (and attend to some other business...).

The top certainly didn't look like a fomality. How were you trying it Joe? I thought mantelling out over your right foot then slapping up the arete with your left hand looked most likely. Anybody out there done it? Mr. Bishton?

Good problem, nice circuit. Shame Eagle Tor's on lockdown, a stroll round both used to be a good day out.

[Percy B]

The problem finishes up the arete - its probably the crux of the problem. Hang off the jug, left heel into the jug next to your hands, slap up the arete with your left hand until its possible to stand up and grab the big bowl shaped feature in the top. Its a shame its green, but its always the way after the winter if problems under trees aren't done regularly. A quick fettle with a toothbrush should sort it out though....

[nic mullin]

Cool, thanks for clearing that up Percy.

[Andy B]

The problem finishes up the arete - its probably the crux of the problem.

I can hear the faint sound of many Tippex bottles being unscrewed.

Including mine.

[cofe]

we need a team mission to make things right. always thought the arete was the way. i find it hard to believe the arete is harder than chip shop mantel though!

[joel]

I can't remember what sequence I tried, as anyone who knows me will know I am terrible for remembering beta from a problem I've just done; let alone one I tried last year!

Good to get this cleared up - thanks Percy; and am keen to go back- Stanton Moor and Rowtor together=good day