QuoteI don't think the 'but so-and-so tried it and didn't' factor is reliable or useful as a rule. I've done a couple of things in the past that 'no-one else could do' so I allowed them bigger grades than I thought they deserved. Time has proven my original instincts correct.Naturally then symmetry demands that the "I've/so-and-so has done it and can't climb 8a, so it can't be 8a" argument that you just used on westworld is similar bollocks. Honestly, do people pay no attention to logical equivalence?
I don't think the 'but so-and-so tried it and didn't' factor is reliable or useful as a rule. I've done a couple of things in the past that 'no-one else could do' so I allowed them bigger grades than I thought they deserved. Time has proven my original instincts correct.
The problem with the font grade is in its attempt at precision it abandons accuracy. For those of you that studied arts, that means the grade bands are too narrow to ever achieve consensus.
Quote from: Jim on March 06, 2009, 10:04:59 pmand famous grouse We thought this was nails until Newman unlocked the magic beta.. Don't put LF in break, put left heel on first left hand sloper instead (with LH on sloper 2, RH on arete), move LH to 3rd sloper, RH bounces up to arete at break (RF pressing against LHS of scooped wall for this), cut loose and put RF on over lip, LF back on 1st sloper, et voila now it's all a million grades easier. Putting heel on is awkward but makes everything after easier and less scary.
and famous grouse
The sensible option would probably be to regrade John's problems as they're repeated (if needed; as easier sequences often keep the same grade) and to keep everything else as normal (which means in a few years someone (atleast as strong as Tyler) might manage to do all the moves on Shadowplay or Il Pirata and give it the grade it deserves. That way i might stop altering all the other grades of problems i do, which then should stop screwing with the minds of other people who repeat them. That hasn't happened as of yet and probably needs more consensus, which i guess is why i've been keen on expressing my 'modest' opinions on alot of problems i've done since getting stuck into some of John's stuff.