[iwasmexican]

So pretty much exactly a month ago something went in my finger, not suddenly though, was climbing fine on the board one day with no pain or anything and the next day it was sore (but not really excruciatingly painful) to crimp with my middle finger, kind of all over the finger, while open-handing was alright.

After that I took 10 days off to try and let it recover and that seemed to help, I was pretty sure I could feel some scar tissue built up around the A2 ligament so I slowly went back to climbing (with it taped to prevent any crimping), not trying too hard, and also massaging frequently to try and break down the scar tissue.

Now I'm back to climbing un-taped and half-crimping on some stuff and it doesn't hurt so much anymore as long as I take it easy, but full crimping still brings out a dull pain in and around the first joint (and not at the A2 anymore, which doesn't seem to be scarred either). This definitely eases off as I get progressively more warmed up though. It also aches when I push it down against my thumb of the same finger (in a crimped position). The other day a friend mentioned that he had a similar pain that he thought was due to instability while crimping? Does anyone know anything more about what my problem might be? I definitely think there was something niggle-y about my A2 but I'm not sure if this is the same thing or something coincident but completely different.


TL;DR: finger hurts around the first joint when crimping (probably not pulley), what do?

[krymson]

so its at the joint(PIP)? not the pulley?

There are something called collateral ligaments at the left and right sides of the joints in your finger. It is the reason your friend is talking about instability. There is also a central ligament which i believe is called the volar plate.

Anways I'm not a physio but you can use these terms to look at finger anatomy and get an idea of whats going on, or talk to a real physio and get some advice.

My pseudo-scieintific way of testing collateral ligament damage has been bending the finger left or right to see which ligament is fuckd.

If you dont want to trust my quacky advice you can always see a physio, and i think theres one or two physio threads on the board as well actually where you could also pose this question and get a more professional answer.

[iwasmexican]

so its at the joint(PIP)? not the pulley?

There are something called collateral ligaments at the left and right sides of the joints in your finger. It is the reason your friend is talking about instability. There is also a central ligament which i believe is called the volar plate.

Anways I'm not a physio but you can use these terms to look at finger anatomy and get an idea of whats going on, or talk to a real physio and get some advice.

My pseudo-scieintific way of testing collateral ligament damage has been bending the finger left or right to see which ligament is fuckd.

If you dont want to trust my quacky advice you can always see a physio, and i think theres one or two physio threads on the board as well actually where you could also pose this question and get a more professional answer.

well no, sorry not been very clear whats wrong, it doesnt hurt bending it side to side. mostly hurts around the DIP (the end joint right?) and around the A2 pulley. also when going from dragged to crimping it feels like the DIP/ end joint gets stuck at 180 degrees before bending just past, only seems to happen when its weighted enough.

which are the physio threads though, I couldnt see any...

[krymson]

check the sponsored posts board.

I would definitely ask them and/or see a physio, what you're describing sounds a bit unusual, at least to me.

[iwasmexican]

I'm starting to think it might be a catalogue of separately strained things, its sore all kinds of place really... But thanks will check that out.