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True dyno problems in the UK. (Read 2365 times)

davetherud

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True dyno problems in the UK.
October 20, 2008, 11:28:39 pm
Lets have some of the true dyno problems found in the UK.

Which one dya reccons the best?

Buckstone's gotta be up there?

Fiend

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GCW

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#2 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 07:45:20 am
What do you mean by "True Dyno"?  If it is a problem that has to be done as a dyno, there's a lot you must exclude.
Buckstone Dyno has been done by climbing the groove- Off the list.
All the Stoney stuff are eliminates- Off the list.
etc

I bet there aren't a lot that have to be done as a leapy thing.  Shame.

slackline

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#3 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 07:49:26 am
If you were including routes Notorious B.I.G. at Burbage South would fit the bill.

dave

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#4 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 08:31:23 am
Buckstone Dyno has been done by climbing the groove- Off the list.

no, the grove and/or the rib to its right have been climbed. this is not the same as the dyno by any means.

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#5 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 08:52:44 am
Ah.  I was under the impression it had been done from chips, backhand the groove, static to top chip.   :shrug:  It wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.  Or do you mean Ron's horrid thing up the bulge to the right?

dave

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#6 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 08:59:58 am
the bulge/prow to the right still uses the groove to my knowledge (i remember asking M.adams about this and he'd done it but i don't 100% remember the numbers). both this and "the groove" were always credited as Ron problems, but since they both use the groove feature it possible that ron just did the bulge/groove combo and this got reported as 2 seperate problems by different people. i've certainly never seen anyone on the groove proper, or heard of anyone doing it. would be interesting the know what various guide writers discovered about these problems when writing the guides.

theres also the issue of how you define "true" dyno. by all means exclude the stoney stuff for being eliminate, but even if the groove on buckstone was climbed static it would be at least 8a probably if not a fuck laod harder than the dyno whatever the grade. Thus the dyno would be by far the easiest way up the wall by a long shot, and thus still a true dyno. most dynos would be possible to climb the same line static at a much higher grade if theres a climber that can pull on pico-hoists. undercuts dyno at roaches coudl be done static by anyone who can pull sufficiently hard on very small crystals, doesn't make it an invalid dyno.
« Last Edit: October 21, 2008, 09:05:14 am by dave »

n_man

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#7 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 21, 2008, 09:02:06 am
The groove - John Welford?

davetherud

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#8 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 23, 2008, 10:34:09 pm
yeah dave,

that was what i was getting at, true been the easiest most obvious way to climb it.

the shocker near beddgelert's another then

tommytwotone

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#9 Re: True dyno problems in the UK.
October 23, 2008, 11:04:06 pm
The groove - John Welford?

If that's true, I've got a monkey that it's 7b+.

 

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