[travs]

I walked past this on Saturday but didn't get my boots on. Foot holds look crap. Which hand do you go for the top with? Any secret beta on it Paul?

[Paul B]

Here's the original thread (two shit pics) which descends rapidly into a Font vs V grade debate:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6435.0.html

Its been done both ways now (I think) with people finding another foothold for your right which I either missed or ignored. I seem to remember my beta being very dependant on what angle you had your left foot on the hold (actually come to think of it I heard Ry did it with a heel?) and making sure I didn't over crimp on the RH holds, if I did I'd go up with the left you see. At the time I was feeling 'overly' strong so I wouldn't be surprised if this method played to my strengths, after looking at it again last time I was up at the plantation I think the original grade given reflects this.

I know CJD repeated it (there's another thread) so he might have some more useful information.

[travs]

Thanks for the info Paul. One quick question though. Isn't there a better right hand crimp up and to the right of your right hand? Is this hold out of bounds or have I just misremembered the holds?

[Paul B]

There is another crimp, I think you can see it on the piccie just up and right of the RH start hold. I think it pulls you too far away from the foothold but I could be wrong. Out of bounds? No.