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Tree Clearances at Wharncliffe Unearth Some Nice Problems (Read 2171 times)

Ackbar

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Was at Wharncliffe yesterday.  They have cut down a lot of trees.  Consequently, there now are some nice low grade problems freed from the trees.  I was down just beneath the next big buttress of rock after the Hell's gate area (i.e. the buttress with the overhang about 100m from Hell's gate).  The boulder directly below this has a nicely shaped, slightly undercut arete and a cool bulge in the centre of the wall.  The bulge can be tackled on the right as a dyno or the left as a rock over all at about font 5+.  The arete goes at around font 6a (ss).  A proper mantle of the nose would be good but looks quite tricky.  Just below this boulder there is a wall with some nice crimps at about font 5.  Then moving down and slightly back towards hell's gate area, there is a flat undercut wall which is really good from a sit start (about 6a+).

I'll post some photos if I am up that way again soon.  I imagine there may be more to discover.

Rich 

Bonjoy

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Is this the boulder below Belle View Buttress? I did a bunch of stuff on this at the same time we developed Dragon's Den and the Outlook. Might have included details on the origibal topo I did for UKB. I do remeber doing a nice r-l trav and an arete plus two up probs. Do you have any photos?

Ackbar

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I'll try and get some photos at some point but none so far.  It's past Hell's Gate but not as far as Long John's stride.  It all looks so different now with the trees down.

Ackbar

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Yes, the boulders were below Belle Vue Buttress.

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/Richard_Ackbar/bouldering/bellevue1.jpg

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s176/Richard_Ackbar/bouldering/bellevue2.jpg

These are quite easy but I did notice, next to the boulder in picture "bellevue2" there is a 45 degree overhanging boulder with a series of small finger ledges which looks great from a sit start but has blocks behind it so big boulder mats and spotters essential.  I haven't tried it yet and expect it to be very hard (i.e. font 7a or more).  For orientation, the boulder in the second photo is down and to the left of belle vue and the buttress in the back ground is hell's gate.

Enjoy.


« Last Edit: August 31, 2008, 07:10:17 pm by Bonjoy, Reason: Inserted photos directly as well as link »

Ackbar

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I mean the buttress in the left of the background is Hell's gate

Bonjoy

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It was the boulder in the first pic that I did problems on. Including a r-l traverse crossing the arete; the arete and the face just left using the sloping boss. Nice rock from what I remember.

Ackbar

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That traverse sounds good.  I'll give it a try when I'm there next.

 

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