[Pie Boy]

So, the other day I had my hands on the far right of the first hold, right toe on the little pebble to the left of the falling apart foothold; and I could only manage to get my left toe to tickle the bit where I need my heel to sit. So what should I do to solve this? Is there a better technique or do I just need to be stronger and more flexable?

Cheers,

PIES. FAT BOY. LITTLE WAINY. ETC...

[dave]

the trick i found for getting the heel on easy is not to place your right foot anywhere in particular and try to "climb" that move, instead kind of swing into it, pasting right foot anywhere round there and kicking the left foot up, a bit like if you were doing a problem with a runup you wouldn't be placing your feet exactly, just use a bit of swing and motion. basically don't try to pull your heel up there, swing it up, almost forget about the right foot. No doubt JB will step in with some other beta.

[Johnny Brown]

Nah. I'm just flexible enough to do it off the foothold  

[Andy Harris]

Remember when you were a kid and you hang on a bar at a kids playground and swing your legs over it, not being strong so you keep your arms straight. Try that approach if it makes sense.  Andy

[Jim]

I can get my heel up off the foothold an'all and I'm no flexible. I've even seen dense with his heel on the hold so you don't need to be flexable at all. just swing it up baby!

[a dense loner]

when will you guy's be told. i'm very flexible at putting my leg up just can't open my hips to save my life

[drdeath]

i hear ya, brother...

tight-groined boulderers of the world unite... :roll:

[saltbeef]

that amusing stretching you were indulging  in whilst in font should have done something... I can get my foot up there too and I've got laughable flexibility. make sure you open hand the start holds and hang straight armed as andy says, it really isn't that bad. obvioulsy progressing anywhere once you're in that position is a different matter...

[nathan wind]

resurrected this in the hope of some beta..

tried the prob early doors last saturday, basically just before it tipped it down...

got the high right hand crimp fine a few times, but couldn't really work out what to do from here, sounds dumb I know!
basically do I just throw with my right for the jug? I think I expected the crimp to be lot better when I got it and was kinda anticipating doing it static, but no... did feel a bit insecure as it was raining at the time too..

[Andy B]

I didn't use the crimp, but went right hand to the middle blobby sloper backhand, then again with my right to jug.

No doubt Johnny Brown will provide various other options.

[Bonjoy]

Having got the crimp thing (I assume you mean the positive layaway high at the back of the ramp), I drop my left hand down to the good bit at the base of the ramp before slapping jug. I guess if you get the ramp via the big crossover then this hand move is defunct

[nathan wind]

Cheers guys..

I do the start crossing over with my left hand, match for a bit of stability then go up for the high crimp / layaway with my right.. more than anything I think I expected it to come together pretty easily when I got the high crimp, but it still felt tricky.. a bit concerned my left heel might just blow out of the hold too as things were starting to get wet.. I was open handing the low left crimp aswell, so might try and turn it into a full crimp it next time

[Bonjoy]

I fell off the last move six or seven times before doing the prob. Worth getting a push through to try the move I reckon

[nathan wind]

ah yeah, hadn't thought of that! might try that next time , could save a lot of stress! in some ways its good to know its no gimme when you get there.. I feel better about not doing it now!