[r-man]

How?

Got completely shut down trying to do anything with either the slopey gaston or the slopey crimp. Any ideas anyone?

[Rice Boy]

I seem to remember digging very deep on a left shoulder press off the highest crimp/sidepull and popping to get the last couple of inches. An intermediate for the RH could have played a part but this may well be a red-herring? The dyno version is easier in my 6.2 opinion.

[r-man]

Hmmm, there was that awkward slopey gastony pinchy thing, but we weren't having much luck using it. Perhaps it needs cold conditions.

Does the dyno go from the break?

[dave]

as far as i know "jellyeyes" is a bit of a specific named eliminate, goes from the break, get the backhand hold thing then a dyno-rockever for the top. This ain't the easiest way of climbing the wall (undercutting from the break i seem to remember?) so i suppose climbing it just anyhow is simply an obvious unnamed problem.

[Andy B]

as far as i know "jellyeyes" is a bit of a specific named eliminate, goes from the break, get the backhand hold thing then a dyno-rockever for the top. This ain't the easiest way of climbing the wall (undercutting from the break i seem to remember?) so i suppose climbing it just anyhow is simply an obvious unnamed problem.

In the gospel according to Ru. It's the other way round, but the routes guide gives a higher billing to the dyno method. Both ways are actually eliminates though, as holds on both sides of the problem the (arete and the groove) are well within reach all the way.

[dave]

word, before either of these guides were a mere twinkle in grimer/ru's respective eyes jon did a topo with photos which was on this site, is this still lurking around anywhere? that aught to shed some light.

[Andy B]

I think the dyno method was done first, or at least rated as better by Jon, but neither version is a classic, unlike Fishboy just above!

[r-man]

We looked at Fishboy, but the exit was so green it was a little off-putting. Will definitely try it on a less damp day.

Incidentally, are the rest of the problems easy to find if you wander across the top of the crag - ie any landmarks, obvious buttresses? We tried walking along the bottom, but it was hard work with all the boulder hopping, so we turned round and did some more climbing at lodge buttress.

[Andy B]

We looked at Fishboy, but the exit was so green it was a little off-putting. Will definitely try it on a less damp day.

Incidentally, are the rest of the problems easy to find if you wander across the top of the crag - ie any landmarks, obvious buttresses? We tried walking along the bottom, but it was hard work with all the boulder hopping, so we turned round and did some more climbing at lodge buttress.

Fishboy was damp and green when we went there too. It looked like it could be made a fair bit easier if the vegetation in the back of the crack was dug out, but I thought that would detract from the character of the problem, so left it all in.

I have tried finding the middle stuff by going along the top from the popular end, but gave up quite quickly. Can't remember many obvious features. Haven't tried getting to them from Lodge buttress etc.

[Bonjoy]

Like Andy says I rate the dyno version as a better prob, but both ways are eliminate and hence not classic by any means. That said I think the dyno is a great move. I´m shit at dynos and it felt one of the hardest ones i´ve ever done.
 From good LH edge get sloper crimp with RH, left foot fairly high and spring for top with LH. Dyno freaks may find it piss.