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New Laurencefield prob (Read 2128 times)

r-man

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New Laurencefield prob
November 14, 2006, 12:40:16 am
The weekend's windy wetness forced me to take refuge with the trad monkeys at laurencefield. It took me back to one of my first trips to the peak, years ago with my uni club. Just as then, I escaped the top-ropes and adventured forth, climbing slightly muddy rock and plucking moss off holds. Problems that I had once epically conquered and proclaimed "must be UK5c!" were falling right, left and centre. They were probably 5b.

Anyway, next to an arete I had climbed before, I found a nice technical face problem, with handholds finishing at half height, and moves revolving round an awkward undercut/sidepull/gaston thing.

7a+ - He's so Derick
Climb the face, contriving a sequence around the upside down hold. At the break, jump off or shuffle right to escape up jugs on the arete (the direct topout is a bit grassy, despite my gardening efforts). Start from the ground, not the cheat block, and stay away from the aretes.

 

Should anyone wish to check it out, walk past the pool area and follow the lower tier to its end (2-3min) where it culminates in a small bay. The rock is a little green, but the holds are clean and the moves are good. It's a good option if it's too windy for anywhere else.

Here's a short video of me failing to repeat for the camera - after handswapping, the next move is to the break. (Right click and save target)




andy_e

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#1 Re: New Laurencefield prob
November 14, 2006, 12:49:57 am
Effort R-manator- not feeling homesick are we?

Looks like a good line though (cue slagging from the Dense corner)

Fiend

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#2 Re: New Laurencefield prob
November 14, 2006, 09:17:45 am
Ummm hmmm  :-\

I'll have you know there was no top-roping going on around the pool, apart from the guy who had to be rescued from Suspense!!

Actually looks a reasonable problem although would be a lot more attractive with a good gardening!

r-man

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#3 Re: New Laurencefield prob
November 14, 2006, 11:44:34 am
Ummm hmmm  :-\

I'll have you know there was no top-roping going on around the pool, apart from the guy who had to be rescued from Suspense!!

Sorry Fiend, only jesting. I meant no slight upon your character. ;) Ropes just make me run...

Quote
Actually looks a reasonable problem although would be a lot more attractive with a good gardening!

There's now a lot less grass at the top and in the break, but it's tricky to clean properly without being on a rope. Perfectly climbable though, and quite involving - took me ages to figure out a sequence, though stronger/more flexible people might be able to find a less convoluted method.

 

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