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Huffy's problem Sheep Pen (Read 2816 times)

superfurrymonkey

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Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 05:51:32 pm
Is there such a problem left of Jerrys problem that starts rh on Jerrys gaston lh back hand and what grade is it?  :shrug:

gangle

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#1 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 06:30:51 pm
Hocking has done a problem starting as the same as jerry's, you bust into the gaston, take the crozzle crimp with your right hand then bumb your left hand to a piece of poo and bring your right hand into the gaston then start questing left on small crimps and exit left at the lip, I think he gave it 8a!

superfurrymonkey

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#2 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 06:42:29 pm
No this version goes at 7b or 7b+ or something funnily enough it was Adam Hocking that first showed it me.

chummer

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#3 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 07:16:08 pm
Does it involve a deadpoint like throw over with the left hand to an edge? If so I got shown it as one of Huffy's and was told 7b too, I think I got it second go and felt more like 7a+, might even of been Hock who showed me too, twas around the time he was trying what became 'Kindom of Pain' I tink.





Houdini

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#4 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 10:00:56 pm
There is one more problem (to go) in this vicinity.  I tried this over a few sessions two years ago:  it would be V10 or 11, a one move wonder.

RH on the gaston
LH on a terrible crimp, really awful @ 10 O' Clock.  You get three or four goes, tops
RF immediately to the R of the RH, contortionate
LF on the deck

Pull on and deadpoint up w/ RH to an in-cut 3-fingertip hold: the move

The rest is considerably easier & not worth describing.


Managed the move once but fell, failing to bear down enough w/ the RH.  (I don't give prizes like this everyday, so if someone doesn't do this soon I'll be very disappointed.)

GO!

superfurrymonkey

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#5 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 03, 2009, 10:05:20 pm
Aye Jon that's the one! cool move whatever the grade!  :)

Andy B

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#6 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 04, 2009, 10:55:09 am
Is there such a problem left of Jerrys problem that starts rh on Jerrys gaston lh back hand and what grade is it?  :shrug:

I'm guessing from this topic that you're Jamie and we climbed together yesterday. It was nice to meet you  :), and cheers for the info etc.

superfurrymonkey

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#7 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 04, 2009, 11:20:47 am
Hey Andy that was me! Glad to be a help, good effort on Jerrys too  :)

Monolith

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#8 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 04, 2009, 11:50:55 am
There is one more problem (to go) in this vicinity.  I tried this over a few sessions two years ago:  it would be V10 or 11, a one move wonder.

RH on the gaston
LH on a terrible crimp, really awful @ 10 O' Clock.  You get three or four goes, tops
RF immediately to the R of the RH, contortionate
LF on the deck

Pull on and deadpoint up w/ RH to an in-cut 3-fingertip hold: the move

The rest is considerably easier & not worth describing.

Managed the move once but fell, failing to bear down enough w/ the RH.  (I don't give prizes like this everyday, so if someone doesn't do this soon I'll be very disappointed.)

GO!



Have tried this and got two goes. Terrible crimp really is terrible.

chummer

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#9 Re: Huffy's problem Sheep Pen
May 04, 2009, 12:01:02 pm
Quote
Aye Jon that's the one! cool move whatever the grade

 :agree:

 

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