[Nibile]

lately im busy trying a new line that links three different problems, and being new to this kind of things (13 moves!!!!!!) i was wondering how you sort out the grade of similar stuff, the links.
this one links an existing 7a+ (minus the exit) into a 6c+ that has to be downclimbed, then a 6c-ish dyno.

i knows its hard to judge without direct inspection/tries, but...any clues?

for example, i read about the new link at almscliff, zen: puts a 7b+ into what grade? theres no mention about marks roof grade.
perhaps youre more used with linkups, and would like your advice, even if i know this thread is quite worthless, BUT HEY WTF IM STUCK HERE AT WORK THE TEMPS ARE PERFECT I WANT TO CLIMB AND NOBODYS ONLINE!!!! WAKE UP YO!!!!!!!!!

[SA Chris]

two and two makes

Anything between 2 and  7(c), in this case. I reckon it's impossible to say without actually doing it.

[Nibile]

chris,
i know this thread is bulls****
you all ignore me, please.

 

[the_dom]

lately im busy trying a new line that links three different problems, and being new to this kind of things (13 moves!!!!!!) i was wondering how you sort out the grade of similar stuff, the links.
this one links an existing 7a+ (minus the exit) into a 6c+ that has to be downclimbed, then a 6c-ish dyno.

i knows its hard to judge without direct inspection/tries, but...any clues?

for example, i read about the new link at almscliff, zen: puts a 7b+ into what grade? theres no mention about marks roof grade.
perhaps youre more used with linkups, and would like your advice, even if i know this thread is quite worthless, BUT HEY WTF IM STUCK HERE AT WORK THE TEMPS ARE PERFECT I WANT TO CLIMB AND NOBODYS ONLINE!!!! WAKE UP YO!!!!!!!!!

You've gotta take the lowest grade - in this case 6c. Them's the rules.

[Nibile]

OUCH IT HURT!!!!!

[squeek]

Zen links Steaky's traverse into Matt's roof which gets V9 I think.  So a V9 into a V9 gets V11.  Or 7b+ into 7c gets 8a.

Your clue from me for your link would be 7b+, based on hardly anything.

[r-man]

I sometimes break down longer problems into sections, helps when I'm working on em. For example, Powerband gets 7c and is around the same length as your link -

8 move 7a+ to a jug
3 easier moves to reach crimp - 6a
2 move 7b (get undercut, drop down)

Maybe you can work backwards from problems of a similar length, and compare difficulty?

[SA Chris]

Can you compile a list of the grades for each move R?

[r-man]

I'd find that hard. But as a rough guide...

1 - straightforward
2 - not so bad
3 - tricky
4 - trickier still
5 - not so tricky as that last one
6 - damn tricky, the middle crux
7 - tricky when pumped
8 - not so bad
9 - pretty easy
10 - also easy
11 - another easy one
12 - really hard
13 - almost as hard
14 - easy

Which as any fool knows, equates to 7c.

[bigphil]

Have a wad point SA Chris for a comedy question and r-man for a quality response!

I've had a boring day so they cheered me up.

[webbo]

i find it works better with v grades i.e v6 into v2 into v6 = v14

[Carnage]

Here you go Try this - makes perfect sense.   

http://www.australianbouldering.com/table.html

(And explains some of the 'amusing' grades in Hollow Mountain Cave)

[Nibile]

the latest news.
i may as well be forced to postpone AGAIN the assault to the first tick of the winter list out of home turf, so this weekend will be spent under the roof project linkup.
problem: the second bit is very hard. the sequence turns a very doable problem into a very hard one, cos all the holds/foothold are prefectly positioned to go up and left, not down and right.

grrrr.

[Nibile]

first move


then the traverse

you follow the break, the you come down to the good hold thats ticked, and from that you dyno (or static) to the jug.

overall view

[Nibile]

besides, the first pic is so old that i managed to grow my hair alot more, have dreadlocks for almost two years, cut everything for long time, and have them long again.