UKBouldering.com

Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent (Read 3288 times)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5033
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 16, 2006, 10:05:35 am
Quote
In fact during his recent trip to Magic Wood (Switzerland) on the 12th of August Kilian managed the 3rd ascent of the Chris Sharma's link up of Unendliche Geschichte part 1 and 2, 8B+!

Only 3 ascents in 3 years, despite all the attention. He must be chuffed. Amazing looking boulder...




Bad google translation :

Quote
Summer, 37 degrees. We are straight at the way in the Averstal. With the thoughts we are in the swimming pool, the remainder of us sweat in the car. Verena, the Stöhr girl and I cruisen in the valley and I admire for the first time the blocks „of the Magic Wood “. After a short break geht's by the cool wet of the Aversrhein and ran to the Boulder. We roam across the area together and I select ourselves the most beautiful lines. From time to time, if one sees exact, one sees Dave hopping also by the forest - from block to block.    Although I with the match the Bouldern the route climbing prefer am I at the rock nearly only with rope on the way - I notice now. With the heavy Bouldern I lift pull it not off and somehow me after Voralpsee. I could increase however somehow after each Boulder and grew in such a way also the motivation. At the latest as I before infinite history stood wanted I no longer away from here. After a few attempts succeeded to me the second part of the infinite ones.    For the first part unfortunately no time remained the forces at the end already was there and Masters in L `bad animals was thus approaching, rest day.    To the match I returned to the valley and was motivated for more! I climbed the first part of the infinite ones and, since the Boulder always consisted for me of a part, worked I from now on on the connection. Two climbing days later I slipped already from the door ramp…    Past Saturday, bake in action, the Durchstieg! And the first face folds (of the broad Grinsen).

German here, plus more photos: http://www.kilian-fischhuber.at/www/home/index.html

Moo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Is an idiot
  • Posts: 1467
  • Karma: +84/-6
#1 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 16, 2006, 11:23:20 am
It's a pretty amazing line waddage.

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#2 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 16, 2006, 01:57:19 pm
I was out whilst he was trying this. He was crusing the 1st section and falling on move 1 or 2 of the second part but obviously got it on a subsequent day. It's a real indoor style problem (all heels and hooks on surprisingly good holds, infact I've never seen such good holds on a hard problem) and bizarely you are always fighting to stay on the holds because of the tilt of the block.

Part I seemed a real link thing with no particulalry hard moves (about 11 moves or so and at least as many hooks), in contrast to Part II which was very bouldery with 3 hard moves on the trot. Personally I thought part II was excellent but I fell on the ramp a few times. It's on the list for the next trip.

Each bit seemed about 8a but linking the 2 together would be another kettle of fish. You'd need to be pretty fresh for the 2nd bit. A fine effort indeed and a very nice chap to boot!

nash1

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 236
  • Karma: +6/-0
#3 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 17, 2006, 12:55:50 pm
Where does the line go? Above the chapz head in the pic are at least two bolts, is it a route??

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4978
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#4 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 17, 2006, 12:57:20 pm
Where does the line go? Above the chapz head in the pic are at least two bolts, is it a route??

It finishes at the dagger jug about 2 feet above the first bolt.
There is a link to the top of wall, not sure if its been done yet.

Andy Harris

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 383
  • Karma: +34/-0
#5 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 17, 2006, 01:26:43 pm
There seem to be a few bolt lines dotted throughout the wood. Mainly on the steeper harder stuff with nasty landings. None of them looked climbed and i wonder if one of the locals or the same individual has bolted them to prevent anyone else from ticking them.

There are also some pretty horrensous looking highballs that look as high, hard as a lot of stuff on the grit. Maybe upto 30-45foot. Seems like most of these have been toproped and maybe soloed after. I wouldn't want to fall off one though even with the quantity of pads stashed in the forest. Don't think I ever did a problem with more than 3 pads until I got to Magic Wood. Our best effort was 10 pads (7 normal, 3 x large) on Hoenrausch!

There also seemed to be a fair few bits that wern't in the guide, given the restaurant is closed is there anywhere to get updates?

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#6 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 17, 2006, 01:32:26 pm
You'd be best off making contact with Steini through something like 8a.nu I reckon. If you have any contact details for Dave he will know the score (although has now left swiss).

al

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 410
  • Karma: +26/-0
    • 50folds
#7 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
August 30, 2006, 02:32:22 pm
hate to put a downer on this but isn't it a major gutter to see this has at least two totally chipped holds - obviously it would have been almost impossible to climb without but ain't no reason, (anyone know who did make the holds?)

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#8 Re: Never Ending Story - 3rd ascent
September 04, 2006, 09:56:16 am
More than two mate - I know some puritanical types wont pull onto to this problem for the reason that its been almost entirely manufactured and that by climbing it validates the style it was created in. I dont know for sure, but I suspect the hand of Steini in its creation.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal