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bentleys gonna sort you out (Read 1737 times)

Nibile

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bentleys gonna sort you out
October 18, 2006, 11:39:22 am
just curious, cos i tried it but to no avail.

where does it start from? down left, from some good slopers, od down down, from small edges under the roof?
anyway, i found it very hard to keep left heel on and reach the sloping arete on the right for the topout.

and besides being very low i liked it alot, its safe and powerful.

dobbin

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#1 Re: bentleys gonna sort you out
October 18, 2006, 12:57:57 pm
I managed to miss my mat trying this and bruised my cocyx. It wasnt nice. Dont know the beta nibs, never actually completed it.

Andy B

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#2 Re: bentleys gonna sort you out
October 18, 2006, 02:18:33 pm
As far as I am aware, Bentleys starts from the holds at the left hand side of the lip, as does Captain Hook. Captain Hook then traverses the lip to the arete, hanging under and using the undercut/ sidepull on the way, then up the arete, which is steady once you get there. For Bentleys I made one move to the right, then locked to the high white pebble with my left, held this and got the dish with my right, then battled, swam, and kicked to a standing position, and easy walk up the slab. So pretty much a straight up problem, with no arete used. I expected holding the pebble and reaching the dish to be the crux so I was sorely disappointed when I got there and fell off several more times from the thrutch. But then I am crap a mantels.

I think Bentleys originally used a lower pebble for your left, but this snapped and I don't think I could hang the resulting divot/ scar, as suggested in the guide.

Were you trying this on Sunday? because thats when I did it.

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#3 Re: bentleys gonna sort you out
October 18, 2006, 03:26:31 pm
ciao andy, cheers for the info.

i tried it in march, one sunny sunday morning, to be precise the 5th.
i dunno why i thought of it yesterday :-\ :-\ :-\
all the problems ive been trying were very clear, it was only a matter of being not strong enough, while for that one the sequence was not clear to me.
anyway, seems like ive been trying more "captain hook" than bentleys.

thanks

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#4 Re: bentleys gonna sort you out
October 19, 2006, 09:00:31 pm
I got shown another version of this problem by steve fearn just around the time the original pebble got broken off in 2000? Its sort of a middle way that isn't either Bentleys.. or captain hook. Starting at the same low flat edge on the left, get left heel on starting hold, cross over with left hand all the way over to the slopey dish, then fall  rightwards to the arete and swim. Remember it being pretty tough around 7b but a good problem. A few people were doing it this way at the time as the original problem didn't seem doable, although it turns out it is doable.. just too bloody hard.

 

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