[steven82]

does anyone know where i can get hold of more minus ten elims i know about white ladder and the other one to the left of it are there some more ones like these that anyone knows of and can let me know please i'm getting bored of failing on the same probs

[ned]

Check out:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5077.msg70335.html#msg70252

Although those are the two that you already know about...

[steven82]

i already know about those there must be more out there somewhere

[Andy Harris]

Been meaning to do this for a while. These are the problems taht didn't get in the guide or are newer. Sorry for mix of gradings but can't be to bothered to sort them out. Have fun!

Tom's

Swing Thing in reverse   7c

Armbandit      7c
      (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-Q, RH-K, LH-I, RH-I.
      Feet anywhere

Sidewall Traverse   7c
      (LH-D, RH-D) RH-N, LH-O, RH-P, LH-P
      Feet anywhere

7c
       (LH-B, RH-A) RH-E, LH-E, footless, RH-U, LH-L, LH-H, RH-H
       Feet on back wall only

7b+
        (LH-Q) RH-O, LH-E, RH-E, LH-B, LH-A
        Feet on S, ramp below S and back wall

Minus 10

Font 7b+
(LH-3, RH-4) LH- small edge/sidepull 30/40cm above 5. RH-break.
Feet on smears only, no breaks.

Font 7c/+
Eliminate on above going to top break

B6
Use jug (1) with left, reach crimp (4) with right and rock to the cluster of spiky edges (2).  Finish at the first break.

B3
A little warm-up.  Use pocket (17) with left, pull up to 19 then break (20).  Up to top break 33.

B5
A variation on the above.  Use pocket (17) with left, pull up to (19) then hole (13).  Make a long reach up right to top break (33).

B7
Variation on the previous problem.  Left in pocket (17), right on (21), then get the edge (24).  Crank up to edge (28) and (30) for the right, to get (33). Feet as problem 7.


B6
Another variation on problem 7 eliminating 2 holds and still being easier.  Left in pocket (17), right on side-smear (21), make huge reach for sidepull (30) with the right and pull up to the top (33). Feet on smears only.

Font 7a/+
(LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-25, LH-29.
Feet anywhere.

Seans Variants
Using a mono on shallow dish (38) ups problems 12 & 13 to 7c & 7c+ respectively.

7b
Start with left on edge (36) and right on pinch 42, foot on (41). Reach up left to the sloping edge (27) and cross over for edge (28) with your right.  Lock out for the incut (32) and the jug (33).

Font 7c/+
(LH-42, RH43) RH-44, LH-38, RH immediately above 38 in poor sidepull facing the opposite way, LH-28, RH-29. No
feet in the low break.

Font 7b+ ish
(RH-46, LH-46) LH-54, RH slopey dish between holds 50 & 52, LH-52, RH-52.
Feet 41 &43 only.

7c
As for Zippys problem but use undercut (49) instead of sidepull (48)

Font 7c/+
As for Zippy's to RH-47, them LH-54, RH-50, LH-51, RH-52.
Feet 41,43,55

[dave]

don't forget theres also punker bunker in Tom's roof, i think this was in the cockfax but not in the new guide. is (LH-C, RH-C), RH-E, LH-E, RH-H, LH-H. feet anywhere bar the sidewall. I always used to think this was a fairly obvious "natural" eliminate, probably 7a+ish?

[steven82]

cheers andy and dave that'll keep me busy for a while

[r-man]

Excellent! Cheers.

[ned]

Thanks for those Andy. That 7a/+ off the slopy sidepull is nails!

Another "new" problem :



Sitting start. Feet on smears - no breaks. Could be about 7b/+ but i really don't know.
It would also go to the top break, which would be a lot harder.

[r-man]

Thanks for those Andy. That 7a/+ off the slopy sidepull is nails!

Yeah - that's a goodun eh? Seems more of a movement thing, once you get the knack it's fine. Try using 26 instead of 25 - makes the problem even better. It's the obvious flatty to the right of 25. Slightly harder to hold, and makes the next move much harder.

Font 7b/+ ? - (LH-34, RH-36) LH-21 slopey sidepull, RH-26*, LH-29.
Feet anywhere.

*Look on page  326 - though hold 26 is listed as a quartzy crimp it's actually a big flatty you can pinch slightly.

This thread is great. I love Stoney.

[r-man]

Was looking at the Tom's Roof problems in the Rockfax today. Some of the problems have different holds. For instance, in the new guide Rack and Ruin finishes RH on flat hold in roof, LH crumbling slot, RH protruding jug. In the Rockfax it drops down to a low crossover and then finishes on the jug in the wall.

Why dat?

[dave]

at a guess i'd say cos the rockfax is wrong and the new guide is right? anyone?

[r-man]

Bumpity bump.