[Turboman]

OK, so I can cruise to the horn every time but then what?  On the odd occasion sticking my left foot out left to some crappy foot holds has helped me to share in by the horn but it leaves you in a truly sh#t position to pop for the nasty crimp.  Anyone got a better sequence?

[jamesprice]

That's the same way I've been trying it. Left foot out left on a shiny edge, match on horn and reach for crimp.

[Turboman]

So do you KEEP your foot out left when going again for the crimp or do you adjust once you have matched the horn?

There are some marked/polished footholds in the bottom of the groove.  Does anyone use these?

[jamesprice]

I kept my left foot out left (on the rare times it didn't slip off) after matching and reached into the groove just above the crimp where it's quite lumpy and possible to get some pull of it. Then got my right foot onto an edge just above the overhang, to the right of the initial crimps.

At this point was quite high, so jumped off to put a rope on; failed to match in the groove thereafter as my left foot kept slipping.

[Turboman]

Cheers James,  I was hoping not to have to rely on that poor shiney foot hold but looks like it might be the way forward.

[dobbin]

I think I kept left foot on edge to match the horn, then my feet cut (I know, I know) and I went right foot just to the right of the ear at the start. left hand to crimp, bump foot up to blackened edgy smear out right and hard move to gaston, then the next move is easy, so I cant remember what I did.

[Turboman]

Ah new beta!  I'd given up hope of ticking PUTP this summer but with the recent cool spell It might be back on. 

Cheers

[dobbin]

If you get there early doors you could be in with a fighting chance (that is, unless you are Scottish, have the appearance of a human equivalent of a bear, in which case you will romp up it in 35deg heat whilst exclaiming 'Aye, its no that hard'). Or as you say if it cools down some.