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The Crack-Wrights Rock (Read 3339 times)

Krank

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The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 03:14:32 pm
Was trying this last night, There is a side pull crimp to your left once you have gained the crack. Is this and the foot block to the left in or out? it made it feel alot easier so i am guessing its out but a fella i met there last night (who had 2 crazy little dogs) thought it was in, any knowledge would be good cheers.

Rice Boy

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#1 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 03:30:58 pm
This is far from local knowlegde (1 visit) but I thought it was a little contrived without it and ended up doing it two ways in the end. One yawning up to the break with left hand (long move) from a right hand layaway in break and the other using the side pull as an intermediate or as a fully fledged hold to go to the top. BOth ways I ended up trying used a left foot cammed in the rounded break which could become a little more liberal heading towards the crack, wasn't sure about that either. All ways good fun though.

I'd love to see someone top it out in the condition it was in when I visited!

Krank

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#2 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 03:38:50 pm
once i get it done i am lookin forward to tryin to use the cool sloper instead of the crack.

AndiT

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#3 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 05:03:26 pm
I jam the base with my right hand and rock up hard on my right foot. Just lay back for a second, then reach up to get the sloper on the right at the top of the crack. Done. Never used anything but the crack and the big ledge/start hold.

I have two crazy dogs.

Krank

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#4 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 05:11:36 pm
cheers i am pretty sure it wasn't you ;) it was a fella called Chris said he knew you though. Cheers i will try this next time im down the valley.

AndiT

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#5 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 06:42:06 pm
Yeah, I call myself Chris at weekends....

Hope it helps, the jam is pretty grim but works (thumb out, I think, so you can lay off it as well as jam it). BTW, have a look inside the crack, I estimate somewhere in the region of 10 billion woodlice living in there.

I'm sure there are numerous methods of climbing it, but I like this way as it is crack oriented, also like my weekends.

Andy B

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#6 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 25, 2007, 06:55:04 pm
I'd love to see someone top it out in the condition it was in when I visited!

I assumed from the comment in the guide (something about the grade falling with a cleaner top) that topping out was obligitory on this. It involved (for me anyway) a really precarious mantel onto the dirty bulge at the top of the crack. I pulled a big pebble, that I was laying off, out of the break, and managed to stuff it back in again, then grab a handfull of loose vegitation to stand up. That was this April. Grim stuff.

Krank

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#7 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 26, 2007, 09:15:54 am
It was the daddy long legs things on tues they were everywhere orrible little things, cheers for the beta will be jammin the crack on friday. weather permittin

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#8 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 26, 2007, 09:52:38 am
Is this the crack on the right?

Krank

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#9 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 26, 2007, 10:26:00 am
The main crack that is home to the woodlice is either right or straight up depending on how you start but there is another crack that can be used as a foot jam to the left but this creates a bit of swing when you take ya foot out and sound like it out anyway.

BenF

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#10 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
July 26, 2007, 12:13:05 pm
Is this the crack on the right?

Yeah, its the vertical crack on the buttress just the other side of the green gulley on the righthand side of Wrights.  Above the start of the juggy warm up traverse below the roof. 

Could I have been more longwinded in describing that?

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#11 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
May 14, 2008, 11:00:01 am
The top-out was still hideous filthy on Monday, if you don't top out where do you stop? And what grade is that? Cheers.

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#12 Re: The Crack-Wrights Rock
May 14, 2008, 12:17:45 pm
I recon still 7a from s/s to match the top... the key for me was a left foot far out in horizontal break.
Who tops-out at Wrights anyway!?

 

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