[ian h]

i read over on rock talk that james pearson had done some new routes at high rocks. i am aware that he sometimes posts on here, so james if you read, just wondered what it is that you have been upto down there

[james]

Not loads really, was only down for a few days and was pretty much concentrating on routes.  I repeated chimera, o-s/s change in the weather, g-u/s southern softie (2nd go, would have been o-s but I slipped off the first move ) and did a new route between "the snowdrop" and "the prangster" up the bottomless off-witdth (go direct from the floor, over the bulge, a cool, tricky sequence gets you into the crack and then to the top.)

No new boulder problems, will be back down in a few weeks so may have a look arround.

[ian h]

sounds like a pretty good day out to me, chimera on sight is impressive, what sort of font grade would you give the crux ?

also if you after other new routes, have you thought about maybe topping out vandal, which looks hard?

[james]

Whoa there horsey, no one said anything about onsighting chimera, if that kinda shit continues, ill end up with a reputation as bad as the sour faced ex predator wannabe .  I only on sighted CITW and ground upped SS.  As for font grade, I dont really know, it varies massivley with conditions etc.
Not looked at vandal, ill put it on the ever expanding list for next visit.

[ian h]

sorry did not read your post right.

however it is still good to see chimera repeated ( it has waited give or take 15 years !!!!!)

i know only too well what conditions mean on the ss.So i can understand you not wanting to offer a font grade for the crux.

i have never been on the route but have heard the grade of font 7b+ touted around, does this sound in the right ball park ?

with regards to vandal, it would be really good to see it get done to the top, if you are interseted i am sure your mate neil will show you the line.
 
also  boulder problems , "bum dragon", and "the slow pull" are unrepeated,again neil will have the details

[ian h]

also if you give me a name and a english tech grade for your new route i will email robin for the new guide due out some time this  year.

[Houdini]

"bum dragon"

I want to climb this.  I don't care what it looks like or how hard it is.  That name is class!



Almost as good as The Ass of Spades.