[Palomides]

Every so often someone pipes up with "why don't all these strong foreigners come over to the UK"

Well, looks like one's in town now:

Garth Millers 8a.nu scorecard

[saltbeef]

flashing staminaband... good effort, and ben's roof. beast.

[BenF]

Excellent start to his visit.  He's here for six weeks, so expect more of the same.

[account_inactive]

Garth is indeed a natural beast.  He's been in hiding in the Blue Mountains for a while but has obviously got the urge back.  He's well known for having lots of time off and then knocking out V12's.

Wonder how the grit will suit him 

[saltbeef]

he's on that frequent flyers film. he's described as "nasty strong"

[dave]

flashing staminaband... good effort, and ben's roof. beast.

i'm more amazed that its dry.

glad to see he's heading straight for where the quality is at first.

[jon bassindale]

http://www.onsight.com.au/news/news_items/garth06/index.htm

And this is what he did just before coming over here...

[Control freak]

http://www.onsight.com.au/news/news_items/garth06/index.htm

And this is what he did just before coming over here...

The boys climbing fucking well at the moment. Make sure you keep him away from anything of any value - in fact if he's psyched for the limestone, thats just fine. Keep him there

[Carnage]

I spoke to him at the wall before he left and I think he has his eye on some of McClures 9a's.

[Palomides]

If you click on the Routes bit of his 8a.nu spraycard it shows that he's visited LPT, and onsighted Pas de Deux and Bad, Bad Boy.


I wonder what else he had a go on?

[dobbin]

But how did he onsight the powerband if he only flashed stamina band? If he onsighted the powerband then he didnt flash stamina band because he would have already done half of it? Anyway, its a good effort nonetheless.

[r-man]

But how did he onsight the powerband if he only flashed stamina band? If he onsighted the powerband then he didnt flash stamina band because he would have already done half of it? Anyway, its a good effort nonetheless.

Maybe someone gave him some beta for the staminaband bit, but he didn't have any when he got to powerband?

[dave]

But how did he onsight the powerband if he only flashed stamina band? If he onsighted the powerband then he didnt flash stamina band because he would have already done half of it? Anyway, its a good effort nonetheless.

flash means did it first attempt. hence did powerband at the first attempt having just done powerband at the first appempt without any prior beta. OK it could be a bit of a grey area when problems share sections but this looks like a clean cut case to me.

[dobbin]

flash means did it first attempt. hence did powerband at the first attempt having just done powerband at the first appempt without any prior beta. OK it could be a bit of a grey area when problems share sections but this looks like a clean cut case to me.

You mean 'hence did Staminaband at the first attempt having just done Powerband at the first attempt...", and I still disagree. As you point out, to flash means to climb something on your first go. If you have already onsighted (which means did it first attempt no prior knowledge) the powerband (which forms the latter half of staminaband) then you have already had a go on the last section of Staminaband, so you can never claim to have flashed it. Had he put down he had onsighted both, I could understand that as this would mean he got on and did the whole thing on his first go with no prior knowledge, but to onsight the last bit and still claim the flash for the full Staminaband link is false?

I am being pedantic. I absolutely don't doubt that this dude is waddage and probably capable of flashing the staminaband (which I still havent done after about 11 years of effort!), and from what I hear he is known for giving things hard grades rather than bigging himself up.

[dave]

As you point out, to flash means to climb something on your first go. If you have already onsighted (which means did it first attempt no prior knowledge) the powerband (which forms the latter half of staminaband) then you have already had a go on the last section of Staminaband,

If powerband didn't exist as a problem in its own right then you would be correct, but I recon as it quite clearly does exist in its own right then if you havent done powerband before I woulnd't class "doing powerband" the same as "having a go at the last section of staminaband". of course if you have already done powerband and are doing it aggain this could be seen as a sly bit of working of the last section of staminaband, and i would concur could put the flash into question.

So if he did powerband then without getting on it again id staminaband first go then i rule that a flash of staminaband. If he did powerband, did it a few more times then did staminaband first go then I rule that not a flash. Of course what i say and think means nothing, you would need to get arthuer harris on the case. ANyway i don't recall harris even calling limestone season yet. Back to the start Garth, back to the start.

[dobbin]

You're absolutely right. I heard from him earlier this week and I think limestone is still a couple of weeks from being called. Such a shame, he could have been a contender!

Rob smith however is clearly following the lead of this garth dude and has already bagged jerry's little plum at stoney. Effort robinator.

[blockhead]

Had he put down he had onsighted both, I could understand that as this would mean he got on and did the whole thing on his first go with no prior knowledge, but to onsight the last bit and still claim the flash for the full Staminaband link is false?

Think i'm standing with dave on this. You can't claim to have onsighted staminaband as this implies no previous knowledge but if you've already done powerband you already have that "previous knowledge". I think it's feasible to still claim a flash for staminaband though i.e. done first attempt but with knowledge of the sequence, looked at holds etc if he only did the powerband part on the powerband onsight. Does that make sense? Think we need a ruling from the official board of arbitration on this which has the backing of some SCIENCE.

An awesome effort tho.

[r-man]

  What is all this madness about? Surely the simplest explanation, like I suggested earlier, is:

Maybe someone gave him some beta for the staminaband bit, but he didn't have any when he got to powerband?

So he flashed staminaband, using beta for that section, but onsighted powerband as he had no beta for that section.

Of course it's all pointless speculation as none of us were there... But hey. 

[blockhead]

I'm all confused now.. it doesn't take much.

I guess your looking at it from the point of view that he only did the traverse once - the full staminaband version and claimed the last powerband part of it as an onsight.

I assumed that he did the traverse twice - powerband first onsight and then did staminaband at later date.

Youre definitely right about this tho...

Of course it's all pointless speculation as none of us were there... But hey. 

[saltbeef]

seems to be doing more stuff... tsunami.

[Doylo]

loads more on garths scorecard now including a very dismaying flash of Jerrys Problem at sheep pen

[dave]

caseg groove sitter 2nd go! not bad.

[Pantontino]

Flashing Jerry's Problem is an amazing effort; proper strong!

Wonder if he tried the sitter project to Main Vein?