15 minutes walk from Black Rocks (sherpas may be necessary for stick insects).
Directions follow the track towards 'high peak junction' and after the choss about half way down the incline take a path on the right up the hill. A few minutes later you'll come across a house sized block.
I cleaned this with George Fisher and Dave Clarke (not of the 5) last year and yeasterday put up three 'new' routes. (of course I'm expecting to be told that these were climbed by a local back in the day and the fact that the cracks were literally full of soil and roots simply shows how 'ard climbers were back in the day etc etc etc).
Routes are described looking out from the top.
The crack line on the left face.
'Vote blue go green' E1/2 5b? cross the slightly Fowleresque roof and follow the increasingly easy crack to a juggy finish. It's not as bad as it looks but could do with another proper clean.
The crack on the right.
'Jam yesterday, jam tommorow' VS 5a ** from low on the right follow the crack left with the crux where the crack steps up to a pleasant finish on jugs. Can also be climbed without the low start as 'jam today' at HS 4a.
The right arete.
'Invisible ethnic minority' E2/3 5c? *
From the bottow of the arete yard out to a small crimp on the nose. rocking onto the rose and recahing out right to a small side pull / undercut and standing up is the crux (A bit frightening as the landing is poor and even with a rope on the gear in the breaks may not stop you in time, there may be micro wires in the small flake) after this it's pretty steady to the top.
There are a number of other lines to be done including what looks like a harder, bolder, more powerful and more technical version of strapadictomy.
