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Seans Problem (Read 2623 times)

Falling Down

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Seans Problem
April 01, 2006, 09:30:20 am
I'm after a bit of knowledge on the footwork and body position for the crossover move on Seans'

I've seen it done many a time back in t'old days but I was never good enough to try it back then so wasn't really paying attention.

So you have the dish with r.h. and the crimp/pinch with left.. where d'yall put your feet to come over for the slopey crimp??  There are three obvious (for Stoney anyway!) edges above the lower break that I was trying to use but kept barn dooring off backwards.. is it a high step up with the left or what??

Hit me with some knowledge....

blockhead

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#1 Seans Problem
April 01, 2006, 08:57:19 pm
I do it by stepping my left onto the obvious flat micro edge just above break and right foot onto a small rounded rugosity near the arete. You really have to throw at the slopey crimp and it does seem a bit improbable and barn door-ey at first but once you suss it out its actually not that bad. Then i step my right foot thru onto next micro edge and left foot goes upto a small slopey edge in the small corner (just up and right of the one-arm bandit pocket) for the rock up.

ned

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#2 Seans Problem
April 01, 2006, 09:02:00 pm
I put left toe on the biggest obvious edge above the low break (i think its the furthest right), and pop to the the crimp from that.

When you hit the crimp, kick your right leg round the back of your left, and onto one of the smaller edges to stop the barndoor.

I don't think i did any high stepping.

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#3 Seans Problem
April 03, 2006, 10:31:04 am
Cheers fellas...

Block: Very precise  :)  I was trying it that very way so it sounds like perseverance is the key.

Ned: I'll try the r. leg swinging tip.

blockhead

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#4 Seans Problem
April 05, 2006, 08:25:26 pm
Think i may have given duff beta for the foothold on the rock up move once youve got the slopey crimp thing with ya right hand.

The dink in the small corner was what i used 1st time i did sean's and was imported from a similar move on an old B8 problem in the rockfax. Now i think about it every time i've done seans since i used left foot on a diagonal crozzly edge/scoop thing at about knee height. Its substantially easier using this than the corner dink.

Early on-set alzheimers. Sorry.

ned

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#5 Seans Problem
April 05, 2006, 09:21:07 pm
I think after getting the slopey crimp (right hand) i use a small round pebble like foot hold for my left toe (think its right of the 3 finger pocket and on a similar level) and stand straight up. Might not work if your short though.

saltbeef

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#6 Re: Seans Problem
April 23, 2006, 11:21:38 pm
this sean's problem is considerably harder than the other sean's. or maybe i've just got weak fingers and shit footwork.

ned

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#7 Re: Seans Problem
April 24, 2006, 12:44:05 am
Quote
this sean's problem is considerably harder than the other sean's. or maybe i've just got weak fingers and shit footwork.

It feels desperate until you have done it once and learned the moves, and then it will feel easier as its not very powerful, just about balance.

a dense loner

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#8 Re: Seans Problem
April 29, 2006, 11:39:47 am
i disagree there beefus. climbings great innit

 

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