Slightly dated Peak Problems but unreported untill know. (Read 6161 times)

fashionguru · January 08, 2006, 09:18:15 pm

Just thought Id post some stuff done by Tony Simspon and Mike Adams Last year that went unreported.

Firstly was Mike's Final project to go down at Wrights Rock in the Churrnet (sorry cant rember the name) start at the right hand side of the crag as from problem 9 but when you have the sloping break head left and up into the roof by a wild gaston move to gain the lip at half height. (huge airtime potential from the roof)

Garde around Fb 8a V11 (done back in August 05)

Secondly was Tony's extension to Higginson's Arm which starts up this problem untill you gain the slopper. Then instead of moving up the prow you match the slopper and continue the traverse round into the cave and exit up the furthest right rounded arete.

Grade Fb 7c/+ V9/10 Name: Side Arm (done Nov 05)

Will some one please tell me how I can put pictures on with the post as I have tried everything I know possible but cannot get them up. p.s am using a mac if that makes a difference.

saltbeef · January 08, 2006, 09:55:49 pm

until now?

ferret · January 09, 2006, 01:32:44 am

think mike actually gave this 7c+ seems nails to me, hav to see wen it finally gets repeated. names warchild i think

BenF · January 09, 2006, 08:18:25 am

Quote from: "ferret"

think mike actually gave this 7c+ seems nails to me, hav to see wen it finally gets repeated. names warchild i think

Yeah, it's a monster move through the roof isn't it? Doesn't look anything less than 8a and if I remember rightly, Mick said the other day that 7c+ was probably a bit harsh.

fashionguru · January 09, 2006, 09:22:45 am

Yep spoke with Mike yesterday and thats what promted me to post as I know ferret you have been trying it a little (well at least thats what mike said).

Mike I think has now thought long and hard about grades and his climbing that he has been doing over the past 6 months and think has recognised he is going better than he gives himself credit for.

Grade 8a what do you think ferret.

fashionguru · January 09, 2006, 09:24:29 am

Can anyone tell me how to post photos onto this board got some good shots of Mike and Tony on the problems.

Bonjoy · January 09, 2006, 10:39:10 am

First resize the pictures to a screen friendly proportion. Then upload them onto UKB gallery at www.ukbouldering.com/gallery (make sure you are logged in on the forum before opening gallery). Open the uploaded photo and copy the URL of the picture (right click on pic, select properties, the URL is the address starting with http). Now paste the URL between a

in your post in UKB forum.

Sypeland · January 09, 2006, 02:25:00 pm

There is a link under the text box which says"Add Image to post" , I'd try that.

fashionguru · January 09, 2006, 07:57:30 pm

Thanks guys for the info will try again with this post.

Pantontino · January 09, 2006, 10:11:41 pm

Not sure if Mick's problem did go unreported. How does Warchild differ from the following (apart from the start obviously) which was in my Bouldering scene report, Climber mag Oct 05:

"News of developments at Wright's Rock in the Churnet Valley came as no surprise. A recent visit to shoot a Stone Circles article had left me convinced that this was a crag with good prospects. Sure enough, along came the quietly prolific Mike Adams, adding three superb highball additions.
First up is Johnny Utah (V8+/9), which starts as for Alternative Three, but moves into the roof on undercuts before yarding wildly leftwards to latch a flake in the roof, thereafter making a big move to gain the half height break. Mike then tackled the obvious direct roof finish to The Undercut significantly improving the somewhat stilted, â€˜middle-of-nowhere' finish of the original problem. Point Break rates V8+. Mike's final contribution was to extend Problem 9 by continuing rightwards along the break until powerful and reachy moves lead up to the top break above Problem 11. Bodhi rates V8, but if taken as a finish to Problem 11 it gives a good V6 as well.
There are still more lines to be done here: the thin project left of Simple Simon will surely go down this winter."

Ru · January 09, 2006, 10:21:26 pm

Quote from: "Pantontino"

Not sure if Mick's problem did go unreported. How does Warchild differ from the following (apart from the start obviously) which was in my Bouldering scene report, Climber mag Oct 05:

No, I win. That problem is the finish to the undercut, Warchild goes left from the problem to the right. However, the peak report in CLIMB magazine in (october?) had this to say...

Mick's latest, and hardest, addition [to Wrights crag] is the left-hand extension to problem number 9 (see p. 229 of the Peak District: Bouldering guide), which moves left from the very slopey shelf through the roof via some powerful reaches. Warchild goes at font 7c+/8a.

:wink:

Pantontino · January 10, 2006, 12:00:28 am

Not so fast tough guy!

Just for clarification: are we talking about 2 independant lines breaking through the upper roof? Or just 2 different starts to the same finish?

fashionguru · January 10, 2006, 01:15:28 am

Sorry guys there is actually a lot more than just 2 lines breaking through the roof. There are about 4 problems taht break through this upper roof. The ones that are reported in climber and (sorry Ru missed the report in Climb I must not have been looking properly that month) the one Warchild reported by Ru in Climb. Which are all independent lines.

Pantontiono- The one you reported which actually shares the start of Warchild (or should that be the other way round) breaks right (where warchild breaks left) and then finish right onto the last problem in the guide.

The other problem there which has not been reported because it is somewhat of an eliminate starts inbetween Alternative Three and The Undercut and using a series of small sharp crimps climbs the vague grove line into the finish of Alternative Three grade V8-9 cant quite remember.

There hope that has cleared things up and should now finish the report of all the problems done at wrights rock or may be not I have just found pics of the other problem at the left hand end of the crag which starts as for problem 5 then when you reach simple Simon make a wild move (long way) out left and up to the good holds. This was called (Fire Man Sam) but I cant speak Welsh so cant give its proper name V8+.

Mike crossing the roof of point break.

Mike crossing the roof on warchild

Pic Bellow is Fire Man Sam

Fiend · January 10, 2006, 08:44:55 am

Looking at those two pics I can see how it would be easy to confuse Point Break and Warchild...

fashionguru · January 11, 2006, 08:58:13 am

Yes I know what you mean. But when you come into the roof for Warchild (you will know what I mean if you go and try them both) It would be desperatley hard to get accross into the finish of Point Break (even if you are only seperated from the two problems by a couple of feet).

BenF · January 11, 2006, 09:32:12 am

Quote from: "fashionguru"

Yes I know what you mean. But when you come into the roof for Warchild (you will know what I mean if you go and try them both) It would be desperatley hard to get accross into the finish of Point Break (even if you are only seperated from the two problems by a couple of feet).

Agreed, the photo's make the problems look "incredibly close" together rather than just "close together". Both excellent lines though and much needed finishes to the 7a's that finish in nowhere.

Pantontino · January 11, 2006, 09:55:15 am

One final point of clarification: Who did the first ascent of Fireman Sam (Sam Tan in Welsh)? Was it you or Mick? (In fact, who are you?)

blockhead · January 11, 2006, 10:07:48 am

I'm only guessing... but i think the thread - Photos of Mike Adams on War Child and Tony Simpson on Side... kind of gives it away.

fatneck · January 11, 2006, 11:50:29 am

Quote

One final point of clarification: Who did the first ascent of Fireman Sam (Sam Tan in Welsh)?

Sam Sam Tan was Mick (naming influenced by a certain Welsh Treebeard of dubious reputation... :wink: )

BenF · January 11, 2006, 12:20:00 pm

Quote from: "fatneck"

Sam Sam Tan was Mick (naming influenced by a certain Welsh Treebeard of dubious reputation... :wink: )

What are you saying about Stig of the Jump? You calling him Welsh or even tall? You cheeky sod. He's as English as the Duke of Edinburgh.

fatneck · January 11, 2006, 12:42:55 pm

:wink:

AndiT · January 11, 2006, 01:04:09 pm

Sorry dude, you were probably expecting one of these replies, but the Higginson Arm problem is old. I did it atleast three years ago as an easier alternative to Higginsons as I find it really hard to get my feet up to finish. Probably fb7b to me. Justin did it a long time ago too.

Good prob none the less, and the name 'Side Arm' can stay or 'Higginsons Farm', or 'Higginsons Side'.....

Cheers,

Andi

fashionguru · January 16, 2006, 12:48:16 pm

Hi Andy,

Spoke with Justin the day I did this problem he was very excited at the prospect of this going down as he himself said to me it was one of the longest standing problems here.

What was your problem n where did it go.

Justin did say to me that he had done a problem from the sloper on H A but no one had ever managed to link it. Is defo harder than Arms to link all way accross.