BenF will probably be along after he's been there tonight to offer more suggestions.
(can't believe you didn't mention this Simon!)
Talking of Fred Nicole, has the direct finish through the biggest part of the roof been done? Sloping mantle-of-death finish etc etc sort of thing you like in fact Ben!
If you raise your grade-range just a little you'll get to experience two better problems though: Fish Arete and Fish Groove. The arete's well worth having a play on... if only to motivate you for future visits (go... you know it makes sense!).
so think tank....i've always tried starting as far right as possible, which seems very hard for the grade. should i be starting direct up the little grove using the (if i remember) sloper and painful crimp, or does it really start all the way rightwards?