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Cresciano hits info... (Read 3073 times)

c.j.d.

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Cresciano hits info...
September 24, 2005, 01:27:36 pm
Does anyone know anuthing about the problem Jungle 8a at Cresciano - if so, links to photos would be much appreciated.  Also, a problem of Tony lamiche called Tiger (grade 8 something I think.  Both re supposed to be awesome, but not in the guide.

Greg C

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#1 Cresciano hits info...
September 26, 2005, 10:18:53 am
There is a picture of Jungle here...

http://home.tiscali.de/boulderrausch/galerie_international.htm

You might be able to work out where it is from that?

PS. There is also a picture of a problem called Tracy Lords buts its not my problem, the cheek! Plus they have spelt it wrong  :roll:

andy_e

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#2 Cresciano hits info...
September 26, 2005, 10:39:49 am
Quote from: "Greg C"

PS. There is also a picture of a problem called Tracy Lords buts its not my problem, the cheek! Plus they have spelt it wrong  :roll:

 :o i always thought it was a long walk from the tilberthwaite car park...  :lol:

dobbin

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#3 Cresciano hits info...
September 26, 2005, 11:05:11 am
Dont know about Tiger, but Jungle is in the trees up and behind the grotte soupir sector to the right as you face GS. Originally called the jungle book and opened by Sharma the whole point of the problem is avoiding the tree. Kicking or even brushing the tree reduces it from a lofty 8a to a humble 7b.

Walk to dreamtime and its in the trees on the left.

Sergio

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#4 Cresciano hits info...
September 26, 2005, 11:17:03 am
Dobin is of course correct. There is a link to a sequence of shots below showing some dude going through the motions....

http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.boulderrausch.de/tessin_jungle_mawi1.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.boulderrausch.de/tessin_jungle_mawi1.htm&h=375&w=500&sz=55&tbnid=efUnR7S_MfQJ:&tbnh=95&tbnw=127&start=108&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcresciano%26start%3D100%26hl%3Den%26lr%3D%26sa%3DN

Picture 3 is the crux, slapping the top from the slopey rail without your feet cutting loose. Involves some marginal heel toe camming with the right foot. Once your hands are on the lip, you can top out a little to the left where there is an undercut and a few creases to pull over on. Good probelm, but sort of ruined by the trees and the low boulder below.

c.j.d.

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#5 Cresciano hits info...
September 28, 2005, 11:21:35 am
Hey, cheers guys - that looks like an awesome bit of climbing!  I have actually bouldered on this boulder before - I was trying to climb from the arete leftwards, and then top out  where the over hang ends - desperate!  Well, I was'nt far wrong, cheers!

dobbin

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#6 Cresciano hits info...
September 28, 2005, 07:57:29 pm
That sounds a fairly accurate description of the problem. I just thought it was the living end whilst our Sergio, well, he nearly did it (damn those trees).

c.j.d.

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#7 Cresciano hits info...
September 29, 2005, 07:19:09 am
On the pictures, the guy looks like he is going up the arete direct/slightly left, thus the hitting the tree thing I guess.  Nodder and meself were in jepordy of crashing onto the slab behing (far left, no where near the tree) is this correct.  Sorry to be dense, but its good to know these things!

dobbin

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#8 Cresciano hits info...
September 29, 2005, 07:55:12 am
aaah! right! no, sorry, you werent on it by the sounds of things - Jungle starts on a triangular (come on memory dont fail me now) fairly reasonable hold thats at the end of a ramp (serg?) then made a big move left to another sloping shelf, match, pop for hideously sloping top out.

Its piss if you hit the tree as it holds you on!

Sergio

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#9 Cresciano hits info...
September 29, 2005, 09:02:09 am
It starts on a good "V" shaped crimp edge at about head high,  which you can match, sort of on the arete right by the trees. Put your left foot out on the slabby ramp far right. Get a hip swing going and lash out with left hand to the sloping rail/shelf (as the dude does in the photo). Hike your right heel on to the starting crimp (trying not to crush your right hand!), and match the slopey rail. Bring left foot up on to the crimp too, so that you can readjust right foot to a poor heel-toe, then go for the top of the boulder without your foot coming off. If it does, it hits that low block below the tree and kills your swing. Handy but, but not cricket really. Then get your feet on the slopey rail and reach out left for an undercut just below the lip, shuffle feet across and slap over with right to better holds and top out.
I'm sure someone said that there is an alternative start where you traverse into the original problem from further right past the tree which is supposed to add abit.
Word.

c.j.d.

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#10 Cresciano hits info...
September 29, 2005, 10:32:38 am
Awesome!  I was being a bit thick there - I can see whats going on in the photos now.  Thats what I was doing, but then going out further left and then slapping up with my left hand into a sea of slopes.  Damn - I can't wait now - 5 weeks seems like a long time.  Is that Segio in the shots then - looking strong!

 

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