[Rhys]

Anybody out there (sorry Simon, just spotted you on here) know roughly what V grade this would get for the original (i.e. not the extension as for IY)? Just wondering as I was trying this the other day int cave and its a well good problem- also what about the grade of Dustkick/ Flake start?

Checked out Here Comes Cadi this week too- wicked steep stuff off heel toes (like MM and Bombshell), any more like this about?

Oh yeah, finally whats that problem of yours right of Lickety Split? Seems like two crap sidepull/ undercuts and a hell of a lot of body tension?

Cheers :D

[Pantontino]

Flip Flop is probably around V8 - 8+ish.

I reckon Dustkick into Flake Start (i.e. finish along Left Wall High) is solid V8 - the closing moves of Left Wall High feel desperate after all that cranking. A great link.

If you liked HCC, then check out Black Heart (and the BH Connection) in the Forcing the Rhubarb Cave (Llanberis Pass - see news items from last year on NWB site). Similar grades and style.

Not sure what you mean by the Lickety Split problem? Are you talking about Slim or the Argument over to the left?

[Rhys]

Cheers for the information, I wanted to go and check out Black Heart and Forcing the Rhubarb too.. Are the newest problems on the website where the guide descrobes a conspicuous boulder abouve Llechog with pocketed sit down starts? Just wondering as I was thinking about making a trip to Gentlemens wall soon and could go and check these out after.

The problem I was thinking of is right of Lickety Split, starting at the back of the roof with two slopey crimps coming out to meet the lip where FF is- Tony Scelmerdine said that it was your problem so I was curious, never having heard of it.

Many thanks as always :D

[Pantontino]

Different Llechog - Hock's new V9 and a bunch of other problems are on the Rhyd Ddu side of Snowdon.

The Lickety Split problem is not mine. Is this not the sitdown start to FLip Flop?

[ned]

Where does Flip Flop start then, and how is it diferent to Lickety Split??

[Pantontino]

Flip Flop is basically the first two thirds of Incomplete Youth, then an eliminate finish moving up to grab the beak above the upper break. Both problems start sitting at the point at which the roof fades into the front face.

Lickety Split is an entirely different problem that moves directly up through IY/FF.

[Duma]

 

[ned]

Oh right, cheers.

Another quick question (sorry) this time about Angel Bay:

Does Papa Big Punch trend left from the left hand undercut pocket, out to an intermediate sloper thing with right hand, and then a couple of pockets to the good sloper/jug out left (the one with loads of chalk on the left hand side of the picture)?

If so, at which point does the right hand variation move right and how far right does it go (is it pretty much straight up past a good central pocket/pinch, or more rightwards, using only the small crimps to the right)?

I presume it is goes from the left hand undercut pocket to the intermediate sloper with right hand, then right hand up and right again to a small crimp (with donkey line).

Do i presume correctly? (oops the question wasnt that quick).
Cheers

[Scouse D]

....the guide descrobes a conspicuous boulder above Llechog with pocketed sit down starts?

I wouldn't recommend going up to this boulder. It is esoteric in the extreme, and certainly not a just reward for the effort put in on the approach. Although I'm sure the first ascentionists had a great day out when they found it, they should've kept it to themselves.

[Pantontino]

Your PBP sequence is correct. As for Nige's RH variant, I was under the impression that he held a right hand undercut, then came up with his left hand to the holds around what you call the tick marked hold (I don't think it is a tick mark - rather it is just a streak of white in the rock). I could be wrong though, as I haven't actually tried it this way.

[Pantontino]

Thanks again to Scouse D for his sterling research work in trekking up to some of the more obscure problems claimed in the Pass. I recently checked out some of the stuff to the right of Weasels and the only good line I found was one that had been marked on the scrawled topo as a project!

[ned]

As for Nige's RH variant, I was under the impression that he held a right hand undercut, then came up with his left hand to the holds around what you call the tick marked hold (I don't think it is a tick mark - rather it is just a streak of white in the rock). I could be wrong though, as I haven't actually tried it this way.

Ah right. Ill have to have a go next time im there, sounds well hard that way. Thanks.