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Leftfield Utopia (Read 1305 times)

Rhys

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Leftfield Utopia
August 31, 2005, 03:39:53 pm
Hello again, back with some North Wales querries- just wondering if the high pocket below the shelf is in? Tried this the other day and couldn't do it with just the low 'un. Went and checked out the pieshop and upper satellites yesterday- lovely place for pottering but I think a hold may have fallen off Happy Snapper which turned out to be a surprisingly good problem. Pie eyed looks cool as well- super lowball!

Oh if anyone's wondering where the chockstone from the Appauling crack is (and the question shurely should be at the forefront of eyeryone's mind) I dislodged it (accidentally) last week leaving a better problem on delightfully baggy jams.

Pantontino

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#1 Leftfield Utopia
September 02, 2005, 09:19:10 pm
Sorry, just noticed this.

Yes the higher pocket is in. (the rule being: anything goes below the thin break). There's a useful toe hook (right foot) that stabilises your position, just when you reach the low sidepull. I was finding the crossover at the end very hard, until I sussed a subtle toe jam in the low break. Now it's just quite hard. A cool problem, if a little obscure.

Holds breaking on Happy Snapper doesn't surprise me - thus the name.

I only gave Pie Eyed a star because someone told me they'd repeated it and thought it was a cool problem. I must admit it doesn't exactly inspire, but maybe its an optical illusion.

 

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