[nik at work]

Looked on the yorksgrit site yesterday at the video and description of the worm. It describes it as going from the easy crack to the arete and then finishing up the arete.
My understanding was that instead of going up the arete it stayed low and  finished further round right via a hideous long move of slopy jobbies to the start of the problem just past the arete (ear'oule or summat).
So am I right or do we have a new contender for most overgraded problem in yorkshire?

P.S. I did post a message to this effect on yorkshire grit but 24 hours without a response and I'm bored (and they said I had a poor attention span at school)

[squeek]

In the Rockfax yorkshire grit bouldering guide it says it finishes up the arete doesn't it?  I don't have it to hand, but seem to remember it said to start at the crack then traverse at low level to the arete and then finish up it, by moves on sloping pinch/flat hold.

What grade would you say it was finishing up the arete?

[nik at work]

Certainly no harder than V7. The arete itself is V5 and the traverse is more awkward than hard - if I'd have known it went up the arete I'd probably have flashed this, and there's no way I can currently flash V10 (or V7 for that matter...). Bit of a crap problem really IMHO. The moves round the arete are awesome though (and feel hard for V10). I think I'll head back up there in the next cold spell...

[squeek]

Must admit when I was last at the bridies I did the arete from sitting then  had a look at this and thought it looked very doable, especially for V10, but what do I know?  If I see anyone who might know tonight at the wall and I remember, I'll ask.

If the traverse is a crap problem, but the moves from the arete into the problem on the right are good, would it be better to just SitStart the arete into problem on right?  Hence missing the traverse?

How high does the traverse from the arete go, do you go up and use the flatty and small lefward slanting flake on the break, or traverse below these holds?  Just in case we go next week and fancy giving it a try.

[nik at work]

The traverse round the arete is at a low level, from the hand hold to the right of the climbers head in the photo below just continue at that level round to the right. There are several slopy pocket/undercut/pinch/sidepull things to fall off from. Basically the problem is transfering your weight across these holds so that you are laying of to the right with your left hand on them. Then it is a long move into the start of ear'oule. But then your feet are in the wrong place so it is a tricky hang while you sort your feet out, then finish up ear'oule. Felt very burly to me (and quite reachy - only 5'6") But very nice. I suppose a sit start from the arete but heading out right would be good as it would miss out the stupid first bit of the traverse - although if it gives you an easy V10 tick I wouldn't complain too much...


P.S. If the image doesn't work it is just the one off the yorkshire grit site.