[dobbin]

An interesting little offering from Al Williams, steady away to gain reasonable layaway with right, looks like you should clamp the arete with your left, paste high left foot and lob for the top?

Any advice?

[unclesomebody]

johnnybrown should be able to help you with this, although he did piss it.  I could give you beta that i THINK it right, but i couldn't get to the top, so we'll wait for someone who's done it!

[Johnny Brown]

You need to get the top bit of the layaway with right - best achieved by getting the lower bit then going again.
Then its just a case of building your feet up - can't remember on what, but once you get them right it all comes together and you can just reach the top - no jump required :

[neil@canaryclimbs]

were is this flatworld, it looks good

[Bubba]

It's beyond the end of Baslow Edge, pretty close to the Eagle Stone, but on the line of the edge, at the side of a wooded area.

[dobbin]

and here's another piccie -

[Johnny Brown]

Oh i forgot - did this another way too. On the left-hand side is a ledge and some undercuts. Start right hand on big jug, get left foot on ledge, then do a big dynamic rock to a sharp pocket in the wall. The start clamping arete and shuffle up and right into same finish as original. Probably worth 7c+, just about.
Its a bit dirty and the pocket is dead sharp, but you've gotta do something whilst waiting for yer mates do do it normally :wink:

[a dense loner]

look at me  :D

[dobbin]

Spied the rock over and the pocket when was last there, looks like fun.

[dave]

tried this on sunday. its hard, and the rock is crazily crystaline and jusy rips the skin appart - I'm a broken man today. got nowhere on the original way, but the LH side way feels loads easier, still eyebaling the top jug too wired to slap was traumatic. shame the rock is a bit scrittley still, and abrasive. word.

[Johnny Brown]

effort Dave. I guess a man of your gangle quotient might be able to get that pocket static?

[Bonjoy]

Aye. Got close to doing it with the original beta, then succeeded using the LH beta which seemed less burly but with a scarier slap for the top (you feel like if you blew the slap you would end up overshooting the mats and landing in the jagged boulders).

[dave]

yeah the bit to the pocket was OK once foot was on (quasi-static), but a stiff pull to get off the ground and get it on there.

still pissed off about bottling the top. maybe in retrospect i should have gone RH round the arete for the layaways on the RHside then sat on arete with left foot, but i didn't think of it at the time. joveloy's sequence was crazy and scary to spot. especially with me eyes closed. effort.

i'm just glad i tried it 2 weeks before font, not 1 week. :shock: SKIN

[Johnny Brown]

I went round the arete for the layaways, then a cajz move for the top. McShane went direct?? That sounds more independent, if a little scury :shock:

[dave]

update

did this yesterday on the Left hand start but then going round to the layaways again (like JB sez) which makes the top static and easy, much less scary than spotting lovejoy on his crazy heel slap death beta. did rip a nasty flapper on my lefthand little finger though from the pocket, pissing blood. Good problem, don't know what i'd grade it though.

so in that corridoor behind flatworld theres a dirty green slab and a cleaner slab. the right arete of this slab is good (V4ish)? and we tried th slab just left heading to centre jugs finish, didn't get it, some holds we were going for at the top were slippy green shit but seemed good. beta, grade? anyone? no? dust? anyone? no?

[Ru]

Centre of slab is Elmer Fudd, font 7a. Crux, if I remember, is standing onto a left foot smear. Right arete is Fat World, font 6a.

What you need is a guidebook.

[dave]

word rude

paz on t'formantioned slab:



7a sounds about right,about same as font 7a slabs in font, I.e. we couldn't do it.