[Mutley]

Okay... I went back over to Cratcliffe this Saturday... my second bouldering venture.  Over the course of the day I managed to do all of the B0 problems at both Cratcliffe and Robin Hoods Stride... did some brilliant aretes.  Fantastic weather in the morning yet the place was deserted.  I successfully managed to removed the skin from all of my digits!  Bloody grit is like course sand paper to the newcomer... I guess my fingers will harden with time.

I tried a couple of B1 problems and to be honest found them bloody difficult -- I was unable to complete any of the B1s... although I only tried half a dozen.  So my questions is: what is the best way for me to train or develop to be able to do B1 routes?  Will repeating B0 problems develop my strength, balance and coordination... or do I need to keep battling with the harder problems until I get up them?

Hope you folks had some good times over the weekend.

Cheers,

Mutley :-)

[Fiend]

Really you should be tackling B0+ as an intermediate step.

[(woz)]

Just get out bouldering as much as you can, and dont be scared to try anything that looks good upto B3, as long as you keep the volume of successes on B0s high. A few more sessions and you will easily be doing B1s and above

[Mutley]

I've managed to get Wednesday to Friday off work this week... providing it stays dey I reckon I'm going to try out the Burbage South Boulders.  Guide book recommends it for begineers -- apparently loads of B0 to B3 problems.

Mutley

[(woz)]

yeah, that should be just what you are looking for. Curbar also has some good easy problems, and froggatt.

[Bubba]

Don't get too fixated on the actual numbers - if you can do all the b0s then you'll probably soon progress just by getting fitter and more experienced. The learning curve when you start is usually quite quick so you'll probably have all the b1s done sooner than later.

[saltbeef]

you need to start campusing, or you'll get nowhere.

[Mutley]

Not sure about campusing yet... one of my mates has given me a Stimulator Finger Board for training.  One area I know I need to develop is my ability to get a firm hold on slopers.  Not sure if it is due to sweat or lack of strength but I kept slipping of most of the slopers at Cratcliffe... my fingers look like I've been masochistic with some sandpaper.

As a side note: what is Font like in December time?  I'm (gritted teeth) going to be 30 in December and the wife is taking me to Paris for a week.  Figured it makes sense to try and venture to Font.

Cheers,

Mutley

[Bubba]

Don't start campussing! Saltbeef, you're a naughty person

Are you using chalk? Grit slopers are notoriously crap in warm conditions and if you try the same problems on a cold day the difference will be quite marked.

[Jim]

assuming this isn't all a wind up.
Get some super chalk (metolius - the only chalk to use) this will help with the sweat.
Ignore saltbeef.
Font is amazing in december (if its not snowing/raining).
Friction on grit gets better the colder it is (same with font).
The stronger you get the easier it is to hold slopers.
don't just try b0's, try b1, b2's etc.. anything you like the look of really.
Your fingers will become harder with time, but tape is good to cover over holes etc... but its really time to stop when all 8 fingers are taped up

[Mutley]

assuming this isn't all a wind up.

Why a wind up  :shock:

[Jim]

you'll be suprised by some climbers sense of humour's, especially on t'interweb, you only have to look at some of saltbeef's post's

[TN]

Agree with what (almost) everyone else says. I'm not particularly strong yet I have got up a couple of B4s - and I still fail on B1s more regularly than I'd like.
Just pick something you like the look of and do it.
Practise really does make perfect. And if not, you can always retire to the pub...

[andy_e]

just go for it! think "Fuck yeah" and psych up and go for it. topping out on a new grade is such a good feeling!
i love this crazy sport...

[dave]

whatever you do don't use the fingerboard your mate gave you until you're climbing like english b6/B6/font 6c/V5. up to that level the time is better spent just climbing, seems that fingerboard type training can actually screw you up if you go for it to early. you're better concentrating on technique rather than strength at your stage, cos its easiet to lear good technique at the outset, instead of trying to unlearn bad habbits later.

[Jim]

amen to that my wigga,
just go climbing yo

[Jonboy]

Dave you say not to use a finger board untill your at font 6c climbing ..surely its good to start training up your fingers  using finger board or other training aids (specialy if your area has limited bouldering).
I'am climbing around V4 and see trying to condition my fingers as a good step to break into V5....how can this screw you up???
Wont strengh aid your technique rather then hinder it, as you will be more confident..

[saltbeef]

technique is no substitute for power.

[andy_e]

you've got to feel the moment, focus energy and growl like a madman. seriously, grunts and growls and screams reallly help you know.

[saltbeef]

power grunts on grit slabs? you sure that'll help?

[Jim]

   
quality
Before you can be strong you must learn to climb, or summit like that