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Pointless Font-style links (Read 4259 times)

Ru

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Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:17:31 pm
All the talk of reversing Extended Warfare into Hurricane reminded me of one of my favourite pass-times whilst crag checking this summer - pointless link ups. Close your eyes and you could be in Font. Bonus points for figures of 8.

Here's some good 'uns, some by me, some not. Anyone got any more?

La Terrace - Do the Terrace but don't grab the top, use some flatties under the apex of the two boulders that lean together, do a 180 pirouette drop down the side of the Jasons Roof boulder, exit up the 7a+ roof. It's the obvious line really.

Storm in a Breadbin - one of Pat King's efforts - Beneath the breadline, span left into the pocket on Deadline, reach left into the Storm, finish up this.

Ben's Extention into the reverse of Rose and the Self Employed Businessman, finish by dynoing to the top from the middile of the shelf. A classic if ever there was one.
 
Percy's start on the Hueco Wall at Cratcliffe into the reverse of the traverse, finish up Chapel of Rest. If you squint hard enough it almost  looks like a line.

Jerry's Trav at Cratcliffe there and back, finishing up the 6c problem above the start. Proper Font style pedantry.

Brad's Block trav at the Cliff Top boulder into Boing Boy  - Mr Littlefair shows us what happens if you combine big arms with big vision.

Any given hold into any other at Raven Tor.

a dense loner

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#1 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:27:10 pm
yeh, any of steve's efforts :lol:
 
was at apparent north b4, am now thinking reverse sloper trav into end prob, down middle prob n into normal finish of trav.
how about up westworld down similar 6b then up 6b arete?
prob right of help the aged into top hold of hta, down hta trav to next prob finish up this :shock:

now somebody find me that barrel to finish scrapping

Nigel

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#2 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:28:20 pm
To make this relevant to the thread, what about the low lip traverse at Remergence, up Blind Date, traverse high lip back left into left arete, up to ledge, shuffle righwards and finish up Mutiny Crack.

Really what I wanted to say was that Ben Moon showed me a problem a bit like your no. 1. Basically Jason's Undercling-Terrace Link. Sitting start as for Jason's Undercling, reach backwards into the crimp on The Terrace, match this. Now cut loose, hug with your feet, and slap round to the pocket on the Terrace.

He reckoned 7c+ and FA Malcolm, although the same day he also claimed that he thought that Malc did the FA of The Terrace, and that Zaff Scotchglass was 8a   :?  I had a quick go but couldn't really get anywhere. Just wondered if you knew about it for the guide. Its actually quite funky! Actually tell a lie, I basically flashed it using a foot jam in the roof crack, so this must be out.

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#3 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:39:41 pm
Both myself and Dave - Nodder - Noden are big fans of the 'link up'. Top venues in North Wales are/were:

Roadrunner - the ultimate link up crag - 40 possible connections, (none of them eliminates - honest guv) Nodder had done 37 of them before the place was trashed in the fire.

Sheep Pen main boulder - lots of power stamina potential here with 3 different starting positions and 5 or 6 finishing lines. The main traverse link is still unclimbed!

Roadside face - endless fun and games to keep bored locals in state of blissful lactic pump. Originall a series of variations on Cave route, but this year a low level traverse in from right has opened up a stack of variants.

The Barrel - plenty of r-l or l-r traverse links into up lines.

Parisella's - again, massive potential for link up variations. Since the ground level has dropped, a few more beauties have emerged.

Actually, none of these are that contrived. I guess we'll save the figure of 8 shit for when we get really bored.

I suppose the golden rule is: If a boulder has a low level traverse, it must be linked (in both directions) into all of the up lines. Only when you've ticked the lot, can you truly declare yourself a 'local'.

Ru

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#4 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:40:45 pm
Will have to do some asking about Malc and the Terrace - he didn't really do the FA did he?.

Done the link from start of Jason's into the terrace, but it's actually totally eliminate as there's a big hold on the sidewall that makes it about 6b, which is why La Terrace is better - pointless but not eliminate. Apart from missing out the top. That bit's eliminate.

Even the elim way on Malc thing isn't 7c+ if you use foot faggotry...

As for the guide, don't worry, my quality control steps in long before any of these make it in.

Oh, another rule - said link up actually has to have been done, not just possible...

a dense loner

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#5 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:52:58 pm
almost forgot, anything by gregory or nigella :wink:

Fiend

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#6 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 08:55:14 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
yeh, any of steve's efforts :lol:
 
was at apparent north b4, am now thinking reverse sloper trav into end prob, down middle prob n into normal finish of trav.



I think there's cool-sounding Big Ron circuit here: That little cave traverse > Hamper's Hang > low traverse > apparent north arete > bit of mating toads > reverse Massacre ....and then reverse it back and forth until you get dizzy or something  :D

Nigel

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#7 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 09:55:02 pm
Quote from: "Ru"
Will have to do some asking about Malc and the Terrace - he didn't really do the FA did he?.


Well I was fairly sure it was Huffy.

Quote
Oh, another rule - said link up actually has to have been done, not just possible...

 
Fair do's, scrub my earlier suggestion then. Although some fool probably has done it. Replace if you like with Aeons at Fairy Steps. Do Aeon, don't rest in the crack but reverse it straight away, finish up V4 crack. Pointless. [/quote]

dave

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#8 Pointless Font-style links
November 01, 2004, 10:01:45 pm
On the subject of the terrace link thing, the obvious line i'd always spied but never tried was starting hanging on the lip hold on the far right B7 arete, reverse the roof to the start of jasons, then span out left to the edges on terrace (no roof crack), then go round to pocket on terrace to finish in the handcrack on the left.

Also i've also thought that the ultimate remergence block eliminate concept linkup would be low lip traverse into blind fig, into high lip traverse left, reverse the B6 on the left into ron's low break traverse, into reversing blind date, go low under the bottom roof, into submergence, then up the B8 eliminate to the lip, the work right along the top lip into remergence, then finish up this and get a rack and harness thrown up for an adrian berry style E10 link. word?

Doylo

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#9 Pointless Font-style links
November 02, 2004, 12:29:30 am
incomplete youth into organ grinder ont the orme, 3 star link up waiting to be done  :roll:

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#10 Pointless Font-style links
November 02, 2004, 12:42:18 am
Know its a bit off topic but what the grade consensus on Zaff Scotchlass Ru?

I heard 7c but the font of all knowledge (www.adamlincoln.com) said something about it being standard 7b

Ru

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#11 Pointless Font-style links
November 02, 2004, 07:35:30 am
Quote
Know its a bit off topic but what the grade consensus on Zaff Scotchlass Ru?


7b from sitting, very bottom end 7b+ if you do the proper, almost lying down start with left hand in the big hole.

 

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