[dontfollowme]

Can anyone recomend any good problems up to about v6 at the roaches? Is there anything at hen cloud? TIA.

[dave]

I've only ever done the classics there, like The Arete (V2?), Staffs Flyer (V4?) and that pocket slab thing (V3?). The staffs kru will be able to point out some more i'm sure.

[mark s]

antlives on the lower tier,the crack over the puddle on the uppertier,the "arete".the left mantle on the block on the lower tier.tech crack direct also the low start(thud).ascent of man start.on the upper tier the undercut nose with a halfhieght break sit start given b3 in the pbg but its harder than that.quite a few probs around nadins traverse.
just about anything really.

[hongkongstuey]

theres a load of really good problems on the small buttress' just beyond wings etc too which hardly anyone ever bothers visiting

i think mark summed up most stuff although Antlives and the scary mantle i'd hardly describe as 'easy'.

[Bubba]

There's good bouldering all over the place at the Roaches - you could quite happily turn up guideless and just have fun. Explore the Spring boulders/Lower Tier/Upper Tier and then take a walk along past the Doxey's Pool, etc and there's loads of stuff away from the crowds. Some of the upper tier problems are getting a bit polished.

Dunno about Hen Cloud - I know there's stuff up there, and a few projects to be had apparantly, but never been up myself. Don't forget Ramshaw/Newstones/Baldstones/etc for more fun....

[hongkongstuey]

when i lived in the area i think the Newstones was prob my favourite place to head out to for a couple of hours bouldering of an evening - some of the problems there are shear class (especially the slightly overhanging slopey thing just left of the dyno - quality!)

[dave]

I would like to take time-out to salute that "slightly overhanging slopey thing just left of the dyno", cos its gotta be one of the best problems on gritstone. I remember first looking at that when i did the dyno and thinking it looked sick, and how could anyone use that sloper? Then on a subsequent visit i had a go and that sloper is the perfect hold, fits your hand and its just great, and also a bit slappy. Its the shiznit.

[Bubba]

Errrm..<cough> I should probably know this, but which dyno is that then?

[dave]

Here are some photos of the B7 sloper thing from ukc:


doesn't look that great on here, but take my word for it, its "rad".

[Bubba]

I must get up there more - that looks really good, but I can't actually picture where it is in relation to anything else there.

I like the little "upper tier" bit with the classic problem up the strange wrinklyRugositySeam thang....

[dave]

The B7 sloper thing is on a overhanging wall next to B5 dyno called "Sly Stallone". Its on the last bit of bouldering at newstones, next to some routes.

[Bubba]

Oh I know where you mean, over at the far rh side. Is that the really obvious dyno problem up the middle of the undercut lower wall - only b5? eeek!

[dave]

Yeah thats the one. The dyno is off a little iron rail type crimp thing with your feet on that lower rampy ledge. If the ledge wasn't there i bet it would be hard.

[dontfollowme]

How far is Newstones from the Roaches?

[Bubba]

Not far at all - about a 10 minute drive....

[dontfollowme]

Sounds good, thanks for the quick reply.

[mark s]

he looks a really good climber :wink:  :wink:  :wink:

[dontfollowme]

Can someone give me directions from the roaches to Newstones? I thought it was in peak bouldering guide. TIA

[mark s]

go back to the leek buxton road turn left,before the winking man pub turn left follow your nose its down there.

[grimer]

Really the only bouldering on Hen Cloud is the aiguillette, the little pinnacle between there and the roaches which has about 3 brilliant probs, about V4 to V7, and about 20 problems in the trees at the opposite end of the crag, slightly on a lower level, mostly from Justin Critch. That's definitely worth a visit too. Lovely setting.

[dontfollowme]

Thanks guys. I got a few things done today, nothing harder than b4 though. The "arete" was cool and I was trying this b8 mantel problem which looks like it might go when conditions are better.

[mark s]

you will do the b8 mantle ,its only b5 at the most
dont forget thud on the lower tier weirdly brill about b7 make sure you use old boots thou as you  will wrecked new 'uns
left hand in an undercut(wet) right hand in a dish kick right foot onto shelf and get your left hand next to your right foot drop left foot and you are into teck crack direct.

[nik at work]

The slab just right of the chipped steps on the big boulder in the rockhall garden is ace. Balance up the ledges and then rock onto the slab with nothings for hands - Mmmmmm.......... Classic and I've never seen anyone else on it.