[Jack McKechnie]

I just signed up to 8a.nu and was wondering if anyone has found an easy way to add all the climbs in my UKC logbook on to my 8a.nu scorecard without doing it manually? I can export it as a CSV file if that helps but I haven't been able to find out how to do it anywhere.

[remus]

I doubt it. The hard bit is working out which UKC routes correspond to which 8a.nu routes, particularly as the 8a.nu database tends to be pretty weird a lot of the time (lots of duplicate routes, misspellings, different spellings of the same route, duplicate crags etc.)

[guypercival]

The 8a route data base is not moderated so for example at Brean you have Chuilla in 5 times and El Chocco in three times at 7b, 7b+ and at 7c depending on what grade you want to "claim". All in all pretty useless especially for trad. It's sole function is to record the grade for the ranking. Not that it's any of my business but don't get on the grade chasing slippery pole.

[Jack McKechnie]

Ah right, thanks anyway. I was just wondering what my score would be out of interest but it doesn't matter too much if I can't get it automatically. Would take too long to go through it manually I think

[jwi]

Jens's scoring-system is wack, that's why most users on 8a are lying about their flashes and call them onsights.

But basically the score is your yearly average redpoint grade for you ten hardest routes. Add three half-grades for onsight (i.e. 7b+ onsight is worth 8a), and one half-grade for flash (so 7c+ flash is worth 8a redpoint: absolutely ridiculous, I know no-one who has flashed just one half-grade under their redpoint maximum).

[Ged]

I have, but that says more about my redpoint ability than my flash/onsight ability.

The main danger with getting sucked into the 8a scorecard thing, which I definitely have been, is that you definitely end up getting on routes for the wrong reasons.  i.e. because they're going to give you a good score rather than because they're good routes.  I'm sure I even subconciously started choosing trip destinations based on likelihood of finding soft touches! i.e heading to spain rather than Buoux.  So I quit.  And am probably happier for it.

[jwi]

and even in Spain you see visiting climbers avoiding superclassic routes that are hard for the grade...

[according to Jens, an 8a+ flash would not be harder than a 8b redpoint... wtf?]

[ghisino]

The scoring system is obviously and purposely biased towards onsighting and quick redpoint, itvis designed to celebrate a certain way of climbing and specific route styles (regardless of the "soft/hard" nature of the grade, it further discourages getting on routes that may "waste" your time due to special requirements in terms of luck, skin or conditions...routes that may be fine long term projects even at your limit though!)

[dave]

The scoring system is obviously and purposely biased towards onsighting and quick redpoint, itvis designed to celebrate a certain way of climbing and specific route styles...

If it is designed purposefully towards a certain style then it's the only part of the whole website that's designed with any kind of style at all. I think you're reading too much into what is just an old and badly implemented site.

You could always just stick your stuff on there not bothering to match up routes and whatever, and just use it as a logbook of what you've done and when, which is all it's good for. But then if you've already got that on the cocktalk database then why bother duplicating it?

[ghisino]

In the golden era of jens larssen's rants, i recall some article stating more or less what i wrote. He was bothered with climbers spending their whole buoux (or whatever old school mecca) trip on a single "limit" project and getting depressed instead of having fun on many easier lines, and he designed the ranking system around that.

I find it a bit arrogant to judge other people's motivations. And totally dislike the boulder scoring system.

That said, i enjoy the ranking/scoring as a joke among peers and especially the fact that it makes you appear way stronger than you really are, especially in the combined boulder+routes ranking (at least in France!)

And as long as your climbing habits are consistent, i find it an interesting tool to visualize long-term progression

[Kingy]

8a.nu has international climbers' comments on routes which can be useful for assessing redpoint choices and seeing how other famous climbers got on on certain famous routes/ boulders (e.g. Dave Graham flashed such and such a route). This doesn't necessarily mean that you have to go for soft touches. On the contrary, a harder tick may be more rewarding and you could pick it for that reason. The site therefore fosters a sense of international climbing community, which is something UKC does not have. 

It is motivating to have climbs dropping off your card after 12 months, keeps you from resting on your laurels and past glories.

Any database is only as good as its active members so although it may be a little dated and clunky, does this really matter? Not really in my view. I much prefer it to a perfectly designed site with only 10 members. 

[Fultonius]

I just signed up to 8a.nu and was wondering if anyone has found an easy way to add all the climbs in my UKC logbook on to my 8a.nu scorecard without doing it manually? I can export it as a CSV file if that helps but I haven't been able to find out how to do it anywhere.

If you just want your score, just put in your 10 hardest routes.

[remus]

Any database is only as good as its active members so although it may be a little dated and clunky, does this really matter? Not really in my view. I much prefer it to a perfectly designed site with only 10 members.

I find it a little frustrating as given the relatively psyched and diverse user base it could be something really special, yet it's trapped behind the terrible interface. Maybe the beta site will improve things.

[jwi]

I have, but that says more about my redpoint ability than my flash/onsight ability.

So have you flashed one full french grade harder than your best onsight then?

[Kingy]

Sounds good, might be worth a look!