[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - AeroCap, 8/2 x4. Dumbbell thruster 25x2, very tired after bad night. Must keep going with the AeroCap training, I'm sure it's crucial for me. Will start doing it on rest days also.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - rest.
Fri - light weights session.
Sat - rest.
Sun - BM back3 session, not bad at all. Shoulder rotations, trap work. Diagonal work.

Setback week, got a nasty sinusitis that gave me hell for a few days. Managed to squeeze in a couple of session, not bad.

[psborland]

M. Limit bouldering at BBC followed by Ancap 11 moves 50 second 2:30 rest time x 6 (out of time to complete planned 8 sets).

T. Shoulder work with bands

W. Indoor routes. First time on a rope since October did 14 easy routes (aerobic capacity?).

Th. rest, pondered installation of recently acquired Beastmaker. GF doesn't want it in the lounge but old metolius woodgrips is in the next best place ..replace ?.

F. figured a way to attach Beastmaker to old Metolius board GF will be so pleased... Afternoon hangboard on new bm2k
 

• 7second on 53 off x 3 half crimp 4 fingers - 5min rest
  7second on 53 off x 3 Open hand 4 finger - 5 min rest
  7second on 53 off x 3 half crimp front 3 - 5 min rest
  7second on 53 off x 3 open hand front 3 - 5 min rest

... Evening home board limit problems.

S. stretching and shoulder work with bands.

S. Indoor general bouldering then An cap: 13 moves 2 minutes rest x 8sets failed on  last rep Finally think I got the level about right . Very tired.


Think i need to concentrate on my crimp strength when hangboarding I have more weight on open handed than half crimped, seems most people are the other way around ??
 

[Luke Owens]

Think i need to concentrate on my crimp strength when hangboarding I have more weight on open handed than half crimped, seems most people are the other way around ??

I'm stronger open than I am half crimped. I've found this to be the case for a lot of people.

[tomtom]

I used to be stronger oh than half crimped - then worked the crimp and it's now the other way around. Sometimes the geometry of the crimp means it will be stronger (focuses weight more on back of the hold rather than the lip).

[filz]

M: shoulder excercises with theraband, push ups, planks
T: assisted mono on bar. db weighted hangs. Good session
W: more theraband excercises for shoulders, pull ups
T: board climbing. repeated some problems
F: rest
S: isometric weights
S: board climbing. Tired

Good training week. Next week I will start doing some AnCap work.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder, elbow
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
T - 8km walk.
W - Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), left hand only. 8km walk.
Shoulder rehab. exercises. 30 mins. step-ups.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 30 mins. step-ups. 10km walk.
Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (7.5kg), right hand only
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Fingerboard lifting: half crimp and drags (7.5kg), right hand only
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. 12km walk.
S - 30 mins. step-ups. 10km walk. Teaching offspring to swim. I detest indoor pools, dislike swimming (other than around a coral reef), and feel dog-tired and hungry afterwards. It’s Dad’s job innit?

Still on for the sharkathon. Shoulder and elbow up and down. Treading water - not just metaphorically - at the moment. Weight stubbornly high, some days/weekends/weeks away climbing and out of the kitchen would help.

[the_dom]

Monday: Short hike - 40 mins, 5kms

Tuesday: Lunchtime deadlifts, PM bouldering - quite a tired session. Not sure why..

Wednesday: Repeaters, pushups, situps. Solid session.

Thursday: Lunchtime deadlifts, PM very solid hangboard session.

Friday: Lunchtime hike. PM One arm max hangs.

Saturday: Bouldering and light-ish deadlifts. Slight hangover = not a great session.

Sunday: Bouldering and messing about on the campus board and beastmaker. Good session.

All in all, a busy week and, in retrospect, a decent one, training-wise.

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 63.78 miles 3 hrs 46 mins I had to stick to main roads due to icy roads. A bit grim.
Tue. Board struggling just did syst em type problems.
Wed. Starting with cold. Feeling pretty grotty.
Thu. 30 warm up problems the repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 36.5 lbs add ed.
Fri. Board did 6 new problems before my tip split.
Sat. Nothing shopping with the missus.
Sun. Bike 65.28 miles 3 hrs 49 mins. Another grim main road ride.

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - not going to happen, no winter. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Send proj on L.Orme. (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. Manod drytooling crag. Sent my new route extension to Stress Test - 'Flying Colours' M10. 35 metres of pure pump management, great!
T. MA. Hip and glute stretches after bolting/jugging on the weekend.
W.
T. Slow ferry to Belfast.
F. Went to 'crag x' to try the route I've bolted there but not yet sent. Worked out the crux, a very tecky very fingery balancey sequence. Fingers too trashed to send by the time I'd worked out the moves. Probably around 7c maybe 7c+ and right up my street - boning a terrible crimp.
S. Donegal weekend after transfer test results. Visited Londonderry climbing wall. Easy aero. Well good, nice high wall, decent bouldering and good routes. Girlfriend's daughter impressed by climbing one-third the way up a 7c+! Malin head in the evening.
S. Explored the bouldering at Dunaff, and Dough Strand. Both venues good for low grade moving around on rock, not much in the higher grades. Pottered up a couple of easy things but the day was about looking around and enjoying the scenery, which is gorgeous. Drove back to Belfast in evening.
M. Bolting at 'mega crag x'. Sketchy rope access saw us getting a horizontal handrail into place under a huge roof, and fixed ropes to the ground to allow us to return and easily equip 3 routes on the wall; and the first bolt in a great groove line to the left. Mega psyched for mega crag! Overnight ferry back in the evening, almost missed it.

Good week for newies. 1 new route sent, 1 worked out ready to send at crag x, 4 more lined up to be finished equipping next visit to megacrag x. And one more new M10 equipped and waiting to be done at Manod. Love newies.