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Acceptable wall behaviours? (Read 1923 times)

Fiend

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Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 10:49:11 am
Getting the wall staff to change the playlist from fucking Oasis

Cleaning up chalk spillages if a chalk bag gets shaken on landing

Looking and checking before you walk past someone on a wild overhanging problem

Smiling / nodding / other polite approval if someone tries hard and does a problem near you.

Generally being affable to climbers around you rather than a miserable sod

Helping brush adjacent problems if you've brought over a brush on a stick to brush your own problem

Brushing key holds on your slopey project after success

Respecting and acknowledging the relative difficulty of problems for all users at all levels

Avoiding any excess showboating (deliberately slow dainty climbing, chalk-blowing, and other knobbery) when you've nipped in to do a problem other people have been seiging.

Chatting politely to newer climbers, spectators, adjacent family members and anyone else looking bewildered by the whole game, even if you're a sweaty man with your shirt off.

....there might be more.

petejh

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#1 Re: Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 11:25:26 am

Directing drips of sweat so that they fall clear of middle-aged academic bumblies.

Dexter

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#2 Re: Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 11:34:47 am
This might be a controversial one but offering advice on technique when someone is obviously struggling and might be new. This is very different from just spewing beta whenever someone climbs but I know I owe a lot to the wads who just pointed out a bit of how to twist my hips or heel hook when I started climbing.

tomtom

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#3 Re: Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 12:03:11 pm
Listening to customer feedback. It’s surprising how many times this results in wall owners/managers getting shirty (sorry!) when you’re just trying to help/correct something obvious.

AMorris

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#4 Re: Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 04:59:02 pm

Smiling / nodding / other polite approval if someone tries hard and does a problem near you.

Respecting and acknowledging the relative difficulty of problems for all users at all levels

Absolutely this. Yesterday there was a lad at the wall who was siegeing one of my techy 6A+ numbers in the corner. I was sharing info on the positions and saying the standard stuff like "really get your hips over that and it will feel a lot better" (N.B. he was asking, rather than me giving unsolicited advice). The final move to the top requires a quick pop off some thin edges to a good flattie and after 20 minutes he was consistently getting there and falling with his hand over the top hold. I have not been so invested in someone getting to the top of something in months, it was fantastic to watch him on it.

The point of this ramble is, I see so many people (new and seasoned) who just bimble up the same routes they have done dozens of times and which are way too easy for them, be it a 5 or a 7A. It is so refreshing to see someone actually trying hard on a problem at my local wall rather than give it a few tries and then give up and climb something they have done multiple times already. I was psyched out of my tiny mind.

Disclaimer: people trying hard on stuff is a rarity at my local, which is annoying because that means a lot of the best problems don't get tried much. I am sure if it was crammed full of people grunting and sieging and celebrating every time they almost do a move, I would be lamenting the lack of people with a casual attitude to climbing.

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#5 Re: Acceptable wall behaviours?
July 25, 2019, 05:55:07 pm
Listening to customer feedback. It’s surprising how many times this results in wall owners/managers getting shirty (sorry!) when you’re just trying to help/correct something obvious.

Did anyone hear a noise?


 

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