[seankenny]

I'm going climbing in Provence for a long weekend, heading to Buoux but the forecast for the hills of the Luberon is for rain on Sunday. Forecast for Marseille is slightly better but on Sunday we'll have all our kit in the car to fly home on Sunday night.

Are the Calanques still a car crime capital? I've been before, parking in both Cassis and at the Marseille city end, but was super careful not to leave anything in the car. Clearly that won't be an option this time - anybody any idea of the risk? Alternatively, any good suggestions for the coast which are safe, likely to cop the good weather and not too far from Marseille airport? Incidentally I'm not that wild about the Calanques as a climbing destination...

[SA Chris]

How about somewhere like Chateauvert? Hopefully out of the weather, but none of the associated hassle of the Calanques.

[mrjonathanr]

Just go to Volx.

[seankenny]

Thanks guys, good suggestions.

[AJM]

How about somewhere like Chateauvert? Hopefully out of the weather, but none of the associated hassle of the Calanques.

Chunks of the grande face are permadry. We bailed there from ceuse a few years ago and got stuff done in several days of sustained rain - magicien d'oz and the 7b+ and 7a to its left I think it was, that sort of area.

[Rocksteady]

Minor hijack 

Is Chateauvert a good winter venue i.e. early December? Permadry and in the southern reaches of France makes me think so? And the area generally seems like it might be pretty decent for a winter chuffing trip?

[SA Chris]

Not been then, but would have thought so. Looks like there may be a few seeps on the main face, but generally dry. I went in May / June time and in hind sight it was pretty roasting, but I had just moved from SA and was climbing with a mate from Oz, so were much more temp tolerant than now.

[AJM]

Minor hijack 

Is Chateauvert a good winter venue i.e. early December? Permadry and in the southern reaches of France makes me think so? And the area generally seems like it might be pretty decent for a winter chuffing trip?

I'd expect so. Main face is in sun til about 2. My wife went there one October and it was nice, we both went early March and had a mix of sun and rain but climbing conditions themselves were pretty ok aside from the rain.

[DaveyDave]

Another hijack... Heard this is a public transport friendly crag, can you get around without a car once you're at the campsite? Plenty of people around driving towards the crag? We can blablacar/hitch to the campsite next week but wont have a car while we're there (for a week or so) - is it a bad idea?

[AJM]

Another hijack... Heard this is a public transport friendly crag, can you get around without a car once you're at the campsite? Plenty of people around driving towards the crag? We can blablacar/hitch to the campsite next week but wont have a car while we're there (for a week or so) - is it a bad idea?

Calamques or chateauvert?

If the latter, I've stayed at the municipale in correns before. Never really seen it as a climbers campsite the times I've been there but otoh never been in winter where the holidayers might be gone. It's a pretty flat walk along the road if you did have to walk there, although without checking I couldn't say exactly how far it is. Nice village. Local wine is good too.

[DaveyDave]

Chateauvert, looks like an hour or so walk in on google maps, but if the road isn't dead quiet it shouldn't be too hard to hitch maybe?

[AJM]

Chateauvert, looks like an hour or so walk in on google maps, but if the road isn't dead quiet it shouldn't be too hard to hitch maybe?

Potentially yeah. And once you're at the crag you have all the climbers in one place so your odds on a lift back are higher?

[seankenny]

In the end we went to Baou outside of Toulon, which seemed to be the only dry place in Provence yesterday. Pretty good climbing and well worth a visit. I think it'd make a very good short winter trip destination.