[Will Hunt]

Was tipped off about this by Adi Gill on Monday. He sent me these photos which got me incredibly psyched! (Reproduced here with permission).







Didn't manage to use Adi's totally wild dyno beta and used a pair of intermediates. The last move is still a stretch but those with neat footwork needn't necessarily come up short. The grade is somewhere between 7A and 7A+ and possibly 7B if you're short? 

The Airedale Triads in this case refers to myself, Adi who told me about the line, and Rob Fenton who rushed to the crag at a moment's notice to supply extra pads!



As an aside, since the Eldwick related Racing Raymond posts on Monday, there were no fewer than FIVE PEOPLE climbing at Eldwick tonight! Incredible! Practically queueing for routes!

[r-man]

Looks good Will. Glad to see some quarrystyle™ over the border.

[Footwork]

Looks hard. 6c+?

 

[GCW]

No to pop out, no tick 😡

[r-man]

What, does it finish there? I assumed this was just a lap of the hard bit for the camera.

[Will Hunt]

The finish is matching the jug. I know that won't appeal aesthetically for some but it is no different from how many of the problems are now climbed at, for instance, Kyloe In - and even how Crusis is most commonly done. Much more enjoyable to drop off having done the good quality and difficult climbing than push on into choss/pine needle death.
Much of the rock at the top of Eldwick is grim and shit and there are a few problems that finish like this. Even the E5 is generally lowered/traversed off from.

If the problem finished at an arbitary hold in the middle of an interesting/difficult sequence then I agree it would be a cop out. The juggy nature of the last hold makes it a very logical place to finish the problem.

If anybody would like to add an extension to the top then be my guest! You'll find no extra quality or difficulty! I was suitably put off by the size of the flakes that Rob was pulling off the top and chucking down onto the floor!

[moose]

Looks proper good (and it was good to meet you there) - I am proper enthused for the first time in a while - a quality 7b on my door-step (Racing Raymond) and now, a Hanks-Wall-esque crimpy 7a+ horror! Thankfully your sequence looks a bit more do-able than the initially tried dyno.  Shame there is nothing to get warmed up on really (though I have yet to look at the natural buttress next door)..

[Adi Gill]

Good F Will, I'll stick to my dyno method if it ever lands, solid 7b though I reckon. Sooties problem to the right topped out above the new prob but it's scary shitsville and not worth it. Get on the E5 it's class.

[Will Hunt]

Let me know if you ever want to try the dyno. The trick is in the foot placement. I dropped the final stretch a few times before moving my left foot slightly. I had it in the best, lowest bit of the foot pocket. If you move it up and right in the same foothold it becomes poorer but higher and gets you to the final hold. Using that with the dyno should be feasible (of course this could have been what you were trying anyway!)

[Fiend]

Lankdale Lungeards more like. Looks alright though, well it will do when you finish it

[andy_e]

Bizarrely, part of my dream last night involved me ticking this second go in my trainers...

[Will Hunt]

Did you top out though? 

[andy_e]

I don't think so. The only reason I didn't flash it is because I tried your intermediates, but then I found that if you reached up left hand it was an easy static reach. Then I woke up...

[Wood FT]

the rock looks really slate-esque in the photos