[Fiend]

So Mr Chapman, given the success of Mr Panton's revolutionary Wales guide, and the wealth of Lakes bouldering that has been developed and/or publicised in the recent years (including of course the mighty South Lakes limestone, and also the east Cumbria craglets which might not be done justice in the forthcoming Eastern Lakes guide), when do you think the time will be ripe for a proper printed Lakes bouldering guide?? One presumes the pace of development (or at least discovery) would need to slow somewhat, but surely it would be a very worthy venture... :

[Bubba]

Don't forget that Rockfax are currently working on one...

But I suspect one done by Greg & crew would be a much better one.

[Fiend]

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM :roll:

Was this the thing there was loads of controversy about when the ever-genial Mickfax was banned??


As much as I'd prefer Rockfax to be doing bouldering/sport/less-documented-stuff guides rather than honeypotting more over-used gritstone crags, I think it would be quite a pity for Greg's work to be ignored and/or overshadowed. The NW guide shows just how well things can work when a true local guru takes the helm with a good understanding of the local climbing.

If RF have to do it, surely a joint effort with Greg doing it would be the best way??



(Ooops I realise this might be opening a can of worms....sorry, wasn't around when this was a previous controversy (if it was one, I can't remember clearly).

[Fingers of a Martyr]

I think it would be quite a pity for Greg's work to be ignored and/or overshadowed.

yeah if there's a guide to be done then the lakes boys shud do it not rockfax. rockfax wud make a gud job but  i'm sure the guide wud benefit from the local knowledge.

[Bubba]

Aye, it was something along those lines.

I agree as well about a local guru being the best man for the job, and I certainly can't see a Lakesbloc/Rockfax team effort being produced this century  

I for one would rather just use Greg's fine and *free* topos over buying a Rockfax book.

[jonP]

So just how good is the Lake District as a bouldering venue? I get the impression that there are lots of areas, but none of them are particularly extensive.

[Big Frank]

So just how good is the Lake District as a bouldering venue? I get the impression that there are lots of areas, but none of them are particularly extensive.

 Come now Jon that's a bit tedious, just because there is more bouldering in Colsterdale alone than the entire of Cumbria doesn't mean there is cause for sarcasm. :twisted:

[Nigel]

Don't want to piss on your bonfire lads but its not a "Yorkshire vs Lakes" competition thread  :roll:

Jon, there are a number of fairly extensive areas in the Lakes - St Bees, Carrock Fell, etc. - certainly the equal of the Welsh crag sizes, and the guide to Wales has taken off in a big way.

However I would stick to Greg's topos before buying a Rockfax guide produced without Greg's involvement, simply because he knows what he's talking about and they don't.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

so i take it rockfax haven't asked for any local involvement with the production of the guide?

[squeek]

So just how good is the Lake District as a bouldering venue? I get the impression that there are lots of areas, but none of them are particularly extensive.

St Bees is one of the best bouldering locations I've been to, including Caley, Burbage, bridestones, Earl, etc.  It's got great problems of all grades on perfect rock in a fantastic setting.

Haven't been to that many other places, Fairy steps is good, Gouther crag has J Mascis which is ace (if a little soft touch  :wink: ),  but is maybe a little far out for most people.  I'll hopefully be going to Carrock fell next time I'm in the lakes.

[jonP]

I've heard St Bees is really good, and it certainly looks good.  The Bowderstone is excellent.  The Langdale boulders & Honister Pass boulders seem like locals' crags (i.e. good if you live in the area, but not really worth a special trip if you don't).  I just wondered how the other crags on Greg's website compared - I'm not interested in a Yorkshire vs Lakes debate.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

these r the places i've been too

bowderstone - wud be perfect if not for the sandbagging :x  and polished footholds

langdale boulders - pretty limited but worth a visit to tick stephan grossman ss in my opinion

gouther crag boulders - wud be great if they got sum traffic but were incredibly filthy when i went - quality problems though

kentmere - little font - gud but very varied in quality with the best problems mostly being above v9  :twisted:  

kentmere - valley of kings - to sum it up in one word SHITE

st bees - great place - setting, quality of problems and quality of rock all superb

[squeek]

gouther crag boulders - wud be great if they got sum traffic but were incredibly filthy when i went - quality problems though

The Truss boulders were fine last weekend when we went, didn't have time to go over to the Peregrin boulders as we were doing a few routes as well.

[Fingers of a Martyr]

yeah the truss ones were ok when i went but four winds wall top out was dirty but its the peregine boulders that r really bad. the top outs were just covered in moss and lichen.

[webbo]

having recently sampled the delights of carrock fell.i would recomend anyone who revels in nidderdale obscurity takes a trip west :D