[Marky]

Looking to try a new shoe to replace Katana velcros, I have had quite a few pairs of Katana velcros and have been impressed but the last few pairs have gone through quickly over the toes. Looking to use as a general bouldering shoe down the wall and easish sport routes up to 7a so would prefer a velcro for ease of use.Any suggestions welcome. 

[Mike Tyson]

I wore Katana velcro years ago and really liked them. I'm currently using Scarpa VS,  Futuras and Solutions. I reach for the Scarpas every time. I find Italian brands fit me better as I have narrow, low volume feet, but freakishly long toes!

As always, try before you buy but I can recommend the VS as a great shoe for your needs.

[mrjonathanr]

which soften up more: Scarpa VS or Solutions?
Thanks

[Mike Tyson]

Bit of a tricky one to comment on I'm afraid, I bought all 3 pairs I'm currently using second hand. So basically, someone else broke them all in for me! Having said that, the Solutions I bought are just too small so I can't wear them. The VS just seem to work for me on virtually everything but smeary slabs.

On a side note, I can't enthuse enough the virtues of buying second hand! The 3 pairs I've got would retail for nearly £400 in total, and I paid about £130ish.

[CharlieBoulder1994]

Might be looking to sell my Scarpa VS 41. If you're interested been worn about 6 times?

[mrjonathanr]

I have some Charlie, but thanks. Wondered if MikeT having perhaps had his for longer could comment as finding they keep their stiffness a little too well, for grit at least.

[CharlieBoulder1994]

The Power of lorica! Keeps it stiff for a very long time.

[Mike Tyson]

I could imagine them being possibly a tad too stiff for grit maybe. Mine worked well enough in Font though so go figure! They were in relatively good condition when I got them but comparing them to a new pair, the previous owner had certainly taken a lot of the stiffness out of them. How long have you had yours for Mr JR?

[mrjonathanr]

A year, but tendinitis in elbows means they've been worn less than 40 times.  A great shoe but toe stays a bit stiff.

[Mike Tyson]

Interesting. Mine had certainly had less use than yours by the sounds of it, and I'm getting on great with them. I'm tempted by the Stix as well. I used to own a pair of La Sportiva Venoms and they were hands down the best shoes I've ever owned. The Stix looked of a similar ilk, might give them a whirl.

Bad luck on the injury, I hope things start to look up a bit.

[mrjonathanr]

Cheers for that, it's a bit stubborn. Was climbing as hard as 20 years ago too...maybe that's why 

I find instinct toe is fine byut Stix/booster toe is diabolical, they are quite different in design, toe shape runs in 'families' of Scarpas. Magos are good, but not on grit, obviously.

[Mike Tyson]

I have to admit, I had some Boostics and they were diabolical. Maybe I like the idea of the Stix being as good as my Venoms were more than I'll actually like them! Why they stopped making Venoms I'll never fathom out, I managed to get my hands in a pair at the wall earlier this year, but like cinderallas ugly sisters, no matter what I did they weren't getting on my feet! I was devastated.

[duncan]

I'm usually a 5.10 chap but Katana velcros fit my feet (wide forefoot, narrow heel). They feel similar to Anasazi VCRs but with a slightly better heel and slightly worse rubber. Other Sportivas and all the Scarpas I've ever tried don't fit as well.

Since you are using them mainly at the wall, why don't you get them resoled with some decent rubber? Sportiva build quality is good compared with 5.10 and they will take several resoles if you get them done before the rand goes. Llanberis resoles do a good job though the price has crept up a little. Alternatively, Sportiva sizing is reliable meaning buying second hand is safe and can be very cost-effective.

[mrjonathanr]

+1 for Llanberis resoles

I have to admit, I had some Boostics and they were diabolical.

Stix/Booster/S/Boostic all have siimilar design ie mega scrunched toes.

Charlieboulder94 ....how much did you have in mind btw?