[Bonjoy]

On Friday Ned did the much fancied highball groove project left of Lip of Fools.
To gain the groove you make a big span from the break under the roof to a less than half pad crimp, then another slightly better hold for the right, cut loose on these then make a huge lock off the smaller crimp to holds in in the groove. A tenuous knee scum on a blunt nano-beak helps with getting the distance on the lock.
It was worked in bits on a rope first, with the knee scum taking some working out. The dismount from the crux was tested twice in less than ideal sunny conditions. Eventually the clouds returned and it was done.
I’d have to say that despite being minimally worked first this is one of the boldest bit of climbing I’ve witnessed. Landing safely off the crux looked tricky, an actual fall off the crux would be grim. There is a fallen dead tree (the one that was used for pro on the FA of LoF!) right where you land but we did manage to patio round this a bit. Anyone keen for a ground-up might want to take an axe to the stump first and bring a few more than the three pads we had.
Here’s the ascent. I’ve yet to upload the footage of the lobs.



No name yet.7C was mentioned for the grade, don’t expect a soft one. As a route it would be nothing less than hard E8 7a.

[Fiend]

LGP-tastic, great stuff 

A tenuous knee scum on a blunt nano-beak

Brilliant 

[Wood FT]

great stuff, love how this stuff is going down

[SA Chris]

blunt nano-beak

love it. Looks ace.

[dave]

Good line that, had totally forgotten about it.

[Tommy]

Great! eatswood has such good climbing. I imagine if Ned had enough free time and skin he'd get 99% of the LPGs done in the Peak in just a year or two!

Nice one Ned.

[Fiend]

blunt nano-beak

love it. Looks ace.

Should be Bonjoy's new UKB title :D

[Paul B]

7C?  - I'd expect this to be wildly out!

[Bonjoy]

I tried it on the rope and the moves are really hard especially the lock which is huge and off a really small hold. I don't think there's any factoring in for highballness at this grade, this would be at least a really stern 7C at ground level. I haven't completed either of them but it seemed harder than for instance Renegade Master, but then there are arguably loads of lowball things harder than similar style but highball things of higher grade  .  Like I say I haven't done either so apply as much salt to that as you like. As I said before Ned totally admits he hasn't much of an idea what grade anything is. Oh well, just have to wait for the inevitable rush of repeats to determine the true grade 

[shark]

One of Tom and Pete's mates was trying it back along. He moved to Wales. Was trying Mecca Extension. What's his name again? - its bugging me

[willackers]

That looks amazing! Nice one Ned!

[Wood FT]

One of Tom and Pete's mates was trying it back along. He moved to Wales. Was trying Mecca Extension. What's his name again? - its bugging me

Adam Bailes, now of Sierra-Leone

[shark]

One of Tom and Pete's mates was trying it back along. He moved to Wales. Was trying Mecca Extension. What's his name again? - its bugging me

Adam Bailes, now of Sierra-Leone

And I thought North Wales was a whack move

[Stubbs]

What a hero 

[Bonjoy]

It's called Sumble. Stop. Repeat. and the grade is 7C+/E8 7a. Ned blog to follow.

[Johnny Brown]

What's a sumble?

[Bonjoy]

It's a word for when fat fingers Stumble with touch screen typing