[Scouse D]

Did 2 new/undocumented problems at burbage south last night. Both of these hav possibley/probably been climbed before but I reckon they deserve some attention.

1) 6b+ In the 7 ball area. Wall to the left of 'curving crimps'. Stand start, left hand on sidepull, right hand on good crimp. Do a short,sharp deadpoint with RH to a good edge. Top out direct. (I cleaned this years ago but had clearly been 're-cleaned' recently and someone had moved a rock from landing - so problem possibly been done by someone else recently.)

2) 7a+ Wall to the left of 'Birch tree arete'(tight line/eliminate but makes sense). This must have been done before but it aint in any books so I'll get it out there.
Pull on to the wall left of the arete with opposing sidepulls and press up to a good edge. Top out direct without using arete (ie stay on the left).
I broke a good foothold on this last week so used a lower,poorer foothold on the ascent. The broken foothold is  good but crumbly. I'm sure if people were to use this foothold it would make the problem easier (needs glue)
Finishing around the arete will probably not make the problem any easier.
Video of problem 1 and photo of problem 2 to come.

[Scouse D]

Problem 1
Enjoy the quality of this production
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kEcEkskWAGA&feature=youtu.be
Problem 2
Notice the opposing sidepulls and the edge above which you press to. I climbed the whole problem on the Left of the arete.#tightline #bitlancashirequarries

[tomtom]

#tightline #bitlancashirequarries

:D

[Bonjoy]

Good work yoot. Twas me who did the one left of Curvy Crimps a couple of months back. Was going to mention it in a round-up.

[dave]

As me and Scouse discussed the other day, we both had some vague memory of the thing next to the arete (problem 2 above) having being claimed/done by Ben Moon at 7c ish, but I've got no idea where we both got that idea from, I'm guessing it was mentioned online somewhere donkeys years ago. So the question is; is that vague memory true, and if so, how does it relate to the above problem? The method scouse used isn't 7c, bot then its possible to pull on pressing off the other way going up RH for the edge, this feels harder but hard to say if its 7c. Anyone know anything?

[a dense loner]

Yes but I'm saying nowt, best ask Iain Jon just in case I'm wrong

[Jim]

Is it this arete? If so I'm sure the guidebook said the wall to the left was 6c or something daft, remember looking at it thinking there were no holds and moved on. Probably a guidebook reading fail tho

[dave]

Yeah its that arete. There's a problem on the far left starting off blocks called mini artless or something apocryphal like that.

[dave]

Yes but I'm saying nowt, best ask Iain Jon just in case I'm wrong

Why do you to ask Jon to ask Iain if you know anything and if you're saying nothing or not? Is this some bizarre caste system I'm unaware of?

[Zods Beard]

In the last BMC guide it states that wall is v9 or something. The Bouldering bible claims the wall on the left is 6b?! I had to check because it looks nails.

[a dense loner]

i thought it was quite simple to work out. i think iains done it but don't want to say he has. i phrased it like that cos i also thought i'd done the stand to an arete at wimberry which jon did which he then pointed out i hadn't and i was a dick. also jon and iain are very good mates and a quick txt would suffice i'm sure

[Bonjoy]

I doubt anyone Inc me and scouse are too bothered who did the 6b first. I just mentioned it to satisfy any mild curiosity scouse may have had about who cleaned it. I agree it's worth putting in the next guide fwiw.

[a dense loner]

I don't recall replying to the 6b?

[Bonjoy]

Soz yoot, your post was very vague

[a dense loner]

told you, I'm on nights and don't want to get into trouble