[Bonjoy]

Dovestones Quarries
Considering the size of the Glendaloughesque boulder maze under the quarries the amount of decent bouldering is actually quite small. That said there are some good things, and more to do. The walk in is similar to that of the Wimberry Boulders. I’ve done various other bits here which I’ll put on pb.info at some point. The best thing is:

Lonesome Thorn 7A – On the steep hillside left of the quarry containing Bob Hope. A steep pointy prow/roof, pointing north. Sit start with feet in the break and hug up the twin arêtes.

Wimberry Crag

Tusk n Bean 7A – Not far below and right of the end of the crag is an obvious large boulder (pretty much directly upslope of Miles’ Slab). Just next to this is a low steep prow. Climb this sit starting on the lowest horizontal ripple of the right arete.

Windberry Wall 6A+ - On the main face of the big boulder itself climb the vague rib left of the central flake line. This is a really obvious decent problem and though not in the new guide will no doubt have been climbed before. There’s another four or five nice looking lines on this block, all look worth doing, none look harder than 6b (they were a bit wet when I was there).

Stiletto 7B+ - On the small lower tier which runs under much of the crag. Below Kvick Buttress. A lovely sharp blank arete climbed on its overhung left side from sitting. A grade less without the sitter.



I'll puts some photos of stuff up later/towrrow.

[Paul B]

Stiletto looks great Bonjoy!

[Bonjoy]

Cheers. The moves are really good, very tenuous. Nearly gave it 7C.

[Bonjoy]

Stiletto



Windberry Wall



Tusk n Bean

[r-man]

Looks like a good haul!

[JamieG]

Nice work. Always good to have some additions in the Chew valley.

[a dense loner]

Jon I've done wind berry wall a lot, stiletto from a stand. Tusk and bean looks good, never thought to sit there!
I also think I've done the bob hope thing, though I can't picture it. I did a lot of probs in the quarries, there's also some good probs round the back ie walk straight through the quarry path and it forces you to walk rightwards along the top, you then drop down and there's a few good bits amongst some routes. Can't remember what quarries they are off top of head.
With the wimberry stuff I told ru about loads of probs but he said it wasn't going to be definitive so stopped. Surprised I missed tusk n bean, tho I didn't like heels around that time!

[Bonjoy]

You're mistaken re Stiletto. It was plastered in snappy crystals and pebbles. No one had ever weighted those holds. No disrespect but I've done enough new stuff to spot the signs of climbing on this sort of rock. It was obvious Windberry had been done before (as I said in my description).

[Bonjoy]

You fucking idiot dense. Go and read your own post on the Rail Trail thread. Nice try. You might want to do some prior searching next time you try and pull a Kelsall.

[dave]

You should know better than to claim problems at Wimberry - this is a local crag for local people.

[a dense loner]

You fool Jon, I started thinking about this after I wrote re stiletto, but it was late and I'm working nights  it looked too familiar that's my excuse. Don't listen to anything I say for the next month!!! After that obviously listen to everything.

[Bonjoy]

Shoepod video of Tusk n Bean -

Lonesome Thorn (warning, this is the worst quality video I've ever posted by a long way. Posted only to give a very rough idea about prob) -

[a dense loner]

I can definitely say i've not done lonesome thorn!
There is a shitty little prob around there tho, not high at all, a little roof type thing up double aretes. Looks nothing like crocodile in font, if i say that you'll know it when you see it, maybe like the old low slung roof at higgar but sharper features. Anyway its not worth seeking out, it just kind of matches the description 

[Bonjoy]

Think I might know what you mean. Is it pretty much directly under Bob Hope among boulders?

[a dense loner]

Can't remember off top of head, it's there or thereabouts. All I will say is I battered my knee at the start of this job and couldn't run for 3 wks and last night did something strange to left knee, so I'm limping around again but can't remember if the 3wk affair was my left or right knee!!! No more questions m'lud