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hangboard grip questions (Read 3411 times)

Cat

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hangboard grip questions
December 15, 2013, 11:40:22 am
Hi,

I've been working repeaters on my beastmaker 2k for a while, mainly focusing on pockets (my weakness). Front 2, middle 2 and back 2 and I assumed (wrongly?) that there would be carry over strength to front 3 and back 3 and training them would be unnecessary, I've since read otherwise. Can someone confirm/deny?

Second question: I currently use the deepish two finger pocket on the bm2k for back two repeaters, but now I've gotten stronger I wanted to move to the bottom rung positive pockets. How do I pull on this? I know finger length plays a part in pulling with back two, but the only way I can get my pinkie inside is by pulling sidewards with both hands twisting (almost like I'm finger locking the hold)

Your help is much appreciated!

« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 11:45:23 am by Cat »

Nibile

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#1 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 15, 2013, 05:28:06 pm
Hey.
Training front, middle and back2 has a consequence on front and back3, but these ones are hung, in my experience, more openhanded.
As for back2 pockets, from the deeper ones I moved to the others on the same line, then to the smaller pockets in the bottom line.
Never tried to use the rungs for back2.
And yes, depending on fingers' length, you have to position you r hans in specific ways to generate the adequate force and grip.
Hope this helps.

Bencil

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#2 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 02:39:43 pm
When using the deep back 2 pocket where do you put your front 2? pointing up or down? Both feel pretty awkward to me.

SA Chris

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#3 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 02:50:02 pm
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=10876.325

I asked same question before and didn't get a definitive answer. I think whatever feels least awkward. I usually go down :)

Nibile

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#4 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 02:52:59 pm
Down.

tomtom

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#5 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 03:15:22 pm
Up

Bencil

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#6 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 03:17:48 pm
Yea down does feel a bit more natural, although it seems harder to get some of the force to go through the pinkie i think... Guess there's not much else you can do unless you carry out some beastmaker carpentry  :'(

rosmat

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SA Chris

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#8 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 16, 2013, 03:43:41 pm

Pebblespanker

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#9 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 17, 2013, 12:16:36 pm
Down and tips curled into my palm, thumb lightly on top - feels more stable and comfy than just pointing downwards for some reason

bendavison

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#10 Re: hangboard grip questions
December 17, 2013, 12:35:17 pm
Down and tips curled into my palm, thumb lightly on top - feels more stable and comfy than just pointing downwards for some reason

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